Thread: V8 Head gasket gone after 9 months

Did the head gasket require it to be retorqued after a certain length of time that it dont not get??
Did you have the heads checked by a pro for flatness or did they get decked last time?? They may look good to your eye but the pro's have the tools to make sure they are flat in every aspect.

I never skimp when it comes to gaskets there is too much at stake. I would double check the head tension requirements, ie :- do they need retensioning after x amount of kms?? If not I would probably double check anyway just to make sure, If its happened before they could loosen again.

Do you do all the work or does someone else? If so then they have some explaining to do!

Originally Posted by nicho

Did the head gasket require it to be retorqued after a certain length of time that it dont not get??
Did you have the heads checked by a pro for flatness or did they get decked last time?? They may look good to your eye but the pro's have the tools to make sure they are flat in every aspect.

I never skimp when it comes to gaskets there is too much at stake. I would double check the head tension requirements, ie :- do they need retensioning after x amount of kms?? If not I would probably double check anyway just to make sure, If its happened before they could loosen again.

Do you do all the work or does someone else? If so then they have some explaining to do!

Nicho,

I've not found anywhere it saying that the head bolts need re-torquing after any particular time, it doesn't mention it in RAVE or the Haynes book of lies that I have. I would have thought that it was not good practice to re-torque with the stretch bolts - once they have stretched that's it?

There was no issue with the heads or head gaskets when I originally overhauled the engine, so I didn't get them skimmed, and yes, it was solely me responsible for any defective workmanship!

Here's my approach to a similar problem:

I have had similar problems recently with my 1996 Discovery 3.9. A full head rebuild/gasket job ($3k/decked block/valves/composite gasket/radiator) by previous owner of vehicle lasted one year before overheating under load etc started to happen.

An inherent design problem comes with the alloy block and heads, in order to bolt down into it, you need coarse threads on the stretch bolts: its like trying to torque down into a big cheese block. The coarse threads are difficult to get the torque correct, in addition to the variablity in stretch on the bolts at the end.

One end of the ARP head studs firstly coarsely screw down to locate the stud in the block (without final torque), and the final torque on the head is then reliant on the fine thread on the other end. This fine thread allows for steel-on-steel (+moly lube) torqueing of the (ARP)head nuts. This allows for a more controllable/less friction final torque, with the advantage of the studs being reusable if the head needs to come off again.

This is the solution i chose (~$115 ARP set head studs from USA, Ebay, $60 for composite gasket set, UK ebay)) and have had no overheating/ gasket problems since.

I hope you have luck with a swift resolution to your problem

Agree, except TRS reckon that the Elring OEM gaskets very quickly leak out the head ends, as mine did after about 80K.
They sold me super duper gaskets.
I have now been to Cape York with mine no probs but I guess still early days as only say 6K or so on the new gaskets.
But I love those ARP studs.

Regards Philip A

Thanks guys.

With all that I've read on this site, I'm very much edging towards ARP studs being the way to go should I have the same problem again. The only downside that I have read about, is being able to get the head over the studs closest to the bulkhead when replacing the HG with engine still in.

So far so good with the Disco, it's only 1000km on since replacing the HG this time, and no issues at all. It's survived a razz around on Straddie, and heading up Mt Tamborine, heavily loaded, without so much as a drop of coolant/oil lost.

Fingers crossed!

The only downside that I have read about, is being able to get the head over the studs closest to the bulkhead when replacing the HG with engine still in.

I posted a few months ago when I did mine that the issue does not arise as you can hold the heads on the dowels and then screw in the studs afterwards. The studs have allen screw heads in them to tighten, and from the instructions you tighten to finger tight before tensioning the nut , then loosen the nut and retighten the stud.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Agree, except TRS reckon that the Elring OEM gaskets very quickly leak out the head ends, as mine did after about 80K.
They sold me super duper gaskets.
I have now been to Cape York with mine no probs but I guess still early days as only say 6K or so on the new gaskets.
But I love those ARP studs.

Regards Philip A

How did those super duper gaskets work out Phillip?

Not so good in the longer term.
The buyer of the car toldme last year that he had blown a head gasket and his mechanic claimed they were poor quality.
However he did report that the heater core blew and all the water came out, so it's hard to know which is cause and which is effect.

He claimed that he had contacted TRS and they claimed not to know about better gaskets, surprising seeing what they cost!

There is another post in D2at the moment listing better gaskets, it's called shot at birth. LOL

Regards Philip A