Frayed timing belt at 45k

**Discomark** · 6th September 2011, 08:16 PM

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Hi again Mark

I had better put this explaination in my own words.

To draw the picture, imagine the belt as a road with a centre line .

Place a vehicle with articulated steering on that road and with its centre steering pin over the middle of the road.

To turn this vehicle left when going forward, the axles ends, on the left hand side, must then be moved closer together and the opposite end of the axle on the right hand side of the vehicle, are moved further apart.

Then as the road passes under the left turning vehicle, the centre line of the road, moves to the right of the vehicles centre.

Thanks Arthur, I know what your saying now, its hard to get your head around but I think the best thing is for me to pre tension the pump bracket like you say and then run the engine for a few minutes and see how the belt is tracking. I am assuming I need to pack a couple of washers between the bracket and where it bolts to the block in order to move the back of the pump out. Can you confirm if thats how you did yours?
Cheers
Mark

How did I go, does it make sense now?

Cheers Arthur

Thanks Arthur, I think I got it now. So I assume I need to place a couple of washers behind the pump bracket to "pre tension" can you confirm this is the way to go? I can then run the motor with the cover off for a few minutes and see how the belt tracks.
Cheers
Mark

**Discomark** · 6th September 2011, 08:19 PM

Originally Posted by slug_burner

One sign although I don't know if all mechanics do it is that there is meant to be a yellow paint mark on the timing belt housing. But I think that Jock has got you the info you need.

Thanks
I don't seem to have any yellow paint but then my Disco is a mid 97 so it may not have required the kit#1 according to the VIN (VA732194)
Cheers
Mark

**wrinklearthur** · 6th September 2011, 10:09 PM

Originally Posted by Discomark

Thanks Arthur, I think I got it now. So I assume I need to place a couple of washers behind the pump bracket to "pre tension" can you confirm this is the way to go? I can then run the motor with the cover off for a few minutes and see how the belt tracks.

Hi Mark

When I did one that was giving me some grief, I simply put back on the harmonic balancer and the bolt to hold it, without the timing cover and the serpentine belt .

Don't forget to put the water in first, but you won't need the pump running for short tests and keep your fingers away from harm!

As the thickness of the washers is what you are looking for, use some feeler gauges to pack the bracket out, until you arrive at the correct thickness and you are happy with the result, you may find that you end up, needing to use shim material to pack it instead of washers.

Also, check the belt tension before each test and I use the lesser tension, that is now recommended for the timing belts.

Good luck!

Cheers Arthur

**Blknight.aus** · 7th September 2011, 05:11 AM

lowering the tension also helps to prevent belt wander caused by missalignment.

**Discomark** · 7th September 2011, 05:28 PM

Picked up the new timing belt kit from Karcraft today (Bearmach with INA bearings and solid lipped crank gear). I asked if they had an updated fuel pump bracket for the belt alignment issue, they did and it specified on their computer that it was to fix belt alignment problems. Part number was ERR6835 and you need it if your VIN is lower than VA534104. Well as it turns out i already have it as my VIN is higher so you can still have belt chafing issues even with the new bracket. I've posted a pic of the one Karcraft sell for those who are unsure if they have the latest bracket.
Cheers
Mark

**Discomark** · 12th September 2011, 06:21 PM

Fitted the new belt and kit on the weekend, biggest hassle was getting the crank seal in and out.
Anyway I did not notice the Tech bulletin in the box the kit came in until I had put it back together : (
One thing I was unaware of is the requirement to;
" Before fitting the new idler pulley stud to the front cover ensure that the stud hole has a 2mm x 45degree chamfer. If no chamfer is evident produce one with
a countersink tool"
Anyone know what the reasoning is here. I guess it could just result in the idler not sitting flush against the casing??

Cheers
Mark

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