Thread: Best 3 inch suspension lift is?

im gonna bite coz i dig your forum name. :-)
Choose what tyres you wanna run first, then pick what your going to do to the metal bits.
And if its not too presumptive a disco on 235/85 will go a whole lot further than most skippers are usually willing to steer her.
For 32s youll get away with a simple set of springs and new dampers. Full stop.

S

Hi,
Thanks for your reply, I was thinking of a 3 inch lift as I want to run 235/ 85/16 in an all terrain and then if I go for a set of 35 inch mud tyres down the track (for the fun days) the work has already been done, I would only have to do the body lift and flairs and the right rims of cause.
I will be running lockers etc. and I was thinking of getting the right diff ratio for the 32’s and then use a lower set of gears in low range if I had to for the 35s?
Cheers Peter

Usual formula with a D1 is a 2" lift for 32s, then add a 2" body lift for 35s.

4.11 CW&P will correct the gearing & speedo on 32s. On 35s these will be 15% out, drive it before changing again. If you're ok with the 4.11s on 35s you only need to sort the speedo.

Or you can change the t/case 1.2 for a Defender 1.4 hi range gear set.

No two combinations of cars & aftermarket springs are the same. Try the 2" lift & see if it drives ok. Some vibrate, some don't. Steering response is a personal thing, some people are happy with the 2" lift, some want improvements. You may need to go down the D/C front shaft & slotted hubs route. Or cranked arms.

Rear bodywork needs a bit of trimming on 32s & a lot on 35s. Google "Camel cut". There's a flare kit for 35s, involves cutting the door as well.

Get all your breakages out of the way on the 32s. CVs, axles, diffs, trailing arms, tie rod will all fail soon enough. Add some diff guards too.

Move the steering damper to the Defender position - there's a kit for this. And check the car history for the steering box. If it hasn't leaked already it soon will with this level of off-roading. Rebuild it to Defender spec. Bearings are different.

Read up on rear dislocating cones. Make for great piccies but I'm convinced they don't add to the car capability. If you want flex and a balanced car you have to free up the front end to match the rear. Read up on holey bushes, & poly blues.

You mentioned some exotic shocks - why? Off-the-shelf 80 Series Toyota Bilsteins bolt in & give you effectively a long travel application. These are the ones that bolt in upside down in the rear. Stick these in - or any +2" shock - while you're sorting the vehicle. A lot of components are going to get changed before you're happy. You won't get it right first time, coz everyone is different.

It's a long & every ending path your on. And we haven't touched on insurance, engineering certificates etc. Have fun,

Regards
Max P

Regards

Hi Max,
Thanks for your reply, In Tassie we can get a 3 inch suspension lift engineered and 31’s but we have found a way to get the 235/85/16 done as well, then I can get a 1 inch body lift as well or I can get a 2 inch body lift and a 2 inch suspension lift engineered.
I was thinking of going down the 3 inch suspension lift but I am open to ideas, I have had several Discos before but these have all be done, the last one was a 2 door with 35’s, diff locks and a 2 inch suspension lift dislocator cones and a 2 inch body lift with 4:11 pegged etc.
This one I would like to do myself as its not my daily and I have the time and I am well set up with all the gear to do it with, and a good budget to do it with. The reason for the 7100 Bilstein was that they have a great review and I wouldn't mind something different that worked well.
That’s why I asked about items below as I was going to put them in anyway to get the best out of the lift, I may be able to get away with out them, but I thought i would put them in for the best results? I guess I want the best stuff put in first off and get it all engineered with that stuff in, rather than having to keep going back.
What Cranked Trailing Arms are the best?
What Steering Dampener would you use?

What Offset Radius Arms are the best?

What heavy duty steering arm?

Is there a sway bar dislocating kit or do they just use an extended link and leave them in?

Regards Peter

When I get around to redoing my suspension I think I will use Bilstein 7100 remote resevor shockies

Originally Posted by blitz

When I get around to redoing my suspension I think I will use Bilstein 7100 remote resevor shockies

There's a fair few of easier straight bolt in remote reservoir shockies available for the Discovery 1 from a few different brands (TerraFirma, OME, etc.).
D2 owners, however don't have that luxury of being able to purchase off the shelf items and so that is why the Bilstien 71000's have been used. I was going to get a pair, but was talked out of it by a few owners of D2's with them due to the ongoing maintenance and reliability, especially the rose joints.

Could have just bought that disco i said about with the 350 in it, had all this done.

Originally Posted by Vern

Could have just bought that disco i said about with the 350 in it, had all this done.

Yes I seriously thought about it, but I decided that I would like to build my own up from the start this time.
It will cost more but I will have the fun of doing it.
I have brought a few already done over the years and have always wanted something or other changed and I have built several for others and never myself, so i thought it about time I did my own
Cheers peter