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Thread: Any ideas before I start spending money ?

  1. #1
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    Any ideas before I start spending money ?

    Hello all , I just purchased a 1998 Discovery auto 3.9V8. I love the car but it seems to lack power at lower speeds.
    It feels like a manual with a slipping clutch . The gear box shifts ok and the kickdown is fine it just seems like the power from the motor is not reaching the wheels.
    Any ideas of where to start ?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanderm2 View Post
    Hello all , I just purchased a 1998 Discovery auto 3.9V8. I love the car but it seems to lack power at lower speeds.
    It feels like a manual with a slipping clutch . The gear box shifts ok and the kickdown is fine it just seems like the power from the motor is not reaching the wheels.
    Any ideas of where to start ?

    Thanks
    Get used to it

    Seriously, I'd go drive another as a comparison first off

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanderm2 View Post
    Hello all , I just purchased a 1998 Discovery auto 3.9V8. I love the car but it seems to lack power at lower speeds.
    It feels like a manual with a slipping clutch . The gear box shifts ok and the kickdown is fine it just seems like the power from the motor is not reaching the wheels.
    Any ideas of where to start ?

    Thanks
    is the kickdown cable connected or too slack? This will cause symptoms like that. The 3.9V8 isn't that sluggish, especially if the trans is working right and the timing is set up properly.

    JC

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    is the kickdown cable connected or too slack? This will cause symptoms like that. The 3.9V8 isn't that sluggish, especially if the trans is working right and the timing is set up properly.

    JC

    The kickdown is connected, When I set it to the factory 28mm and try to take up the slack it idle's far to high ? I've set it so the cable isn't slack but this isn't to factory specs

  5. #5
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    Huh?
    You adjust the Kickdown cable not the throttle cable!
    There should be no effect on idle. If somehow that escapes me there is, readjust the throttle cable so there is a bit of slack.
    Regards Philip A

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Huh?
    You adjust the Kickdown cable not the throttle cable!
    There should be no effect on idle. If somehow that escapes me there is, readjust the throttle cable so there is a bit of slack.
    Regards Philip A
    Maybe I'm doing something wrong then . The way I read it you adjust the kickdown cable so there is 28mm on the inside of the bracket and then adjust the black nut on the throttle cable to position the metal crimp 1mm from the shaft. When I do this there is no slack in the throttle cable and the idle goes up
    What am I doing wrong ?

  7. #7
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    1. To isolate kickdown issues, try starting off with the gear lever in "1". Most D1's I have met do change up too early on a steep hill.

    2. Check the ignition timing. They run MUCH better at 10 degrees BTDC timing at idle. Check also that the timing advances as you rev it up. The factory stock timing is woeful to drive.

  8. #8
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    The way I read it you adjust the kickdown cable so there is 28mm on the inside of the bracket and then adjust the black nut on the throttle cable to position the metal crimp 1mm from the shaft. When I do this there is no slack in the throttle cable and the idle goes up .
    I think you are misreading the manual.

    Maybe it is different to my 92 RRC but to adjust the kickdown cable you only touch the kickdown adjustment. If you increase the distance of the metal slug ( which is on the kickdown cable NOT the throttle cable) over 1MM the change points will go up. Many people do this .

    There should be no relationship with the throttle cable.
    Regards Philip A

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    I think you are misreading the manual.

    Maybe it is different to my 92 RRC but to adjust the kickdown cable you only touch the kickdown adjustment. If you increase the distance of the metal slug ( which is on the kickdown cable NOT the throttle cable) over 1MM the change points will go up. Many people do this .

    There should be no relationship with the throttle cable.
    Regards Philip A
    Maybe it's different from the RRC . This is from the service manual , if I'm being stupid let me know .


    1. Remove split pin, withdraw clevis pin and
    disconnect kickdown cable from lever.
    2. Remove split pin, withdraw clevis pin and
    disconnect throttle cable from lever.
    3. Adjust the position of the kickdown cable
    locknuts so that dimension ’A’ is 28 mm. With
    cable held in this position, there should be 6
    threads exposed to the rear of the bracket,
    (dimension ’B’).
    4. Tighten both locknuts Connect the kickdown
    cable to the lever and secure with clevis pin and
    split pin.
    5. Connect the throttle cable to the lever and
    secure with clevis pin and split pin.
    6. Pull back the rubber boot on the kickdown cable
    until the crimped nipple is visible.
    7. Rotate the knurled plug on the throttle cable until
    the crimped nipple is 1 mm from the end of the
    threads, (dimension ’C’).
    8. Refit the rubber boot.

  10. #10
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    Well its wrong if it results in you increasing the idle speed by having an overtight throttle cable. It wouldn't be the first time.

    Just adjust the cables so you have a bit of slack in the throttle cable and the kickdown cable slug is at least 1MM space between the it and the end of the cable adjuster .

    Regards Philip A

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