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If you are talking about the "head bolts" they are 19mm (3/4" AF) six sided, you don't want to be tightening head bolts as they a torqued to yeild. if you are talking about exhaust manifold to head bolts, mine are 15mm 6 sided nuts on studs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Byte
The rear door can move around on the seal and leak (while driving), check that the door lock is holding the door against the seal, see if you can slide a sheet of paper between seal and door when closed, Regards Frank.
Thanks Frank.
The bolts I am referring to holds the top cover of the motor. They are small and are between 8-9mm and are six-sided. What tool do I use to remove these bolts?
I checked the rear door, and I think that may be the major contributor to the leaks. The door can never be locked shut properly, no matter how hard I close it. It rattles, and I thin it has something to do with the latch/locking mechanism. I will check the paper trick tomorrow.
If the paper can get through, do I replace the seal?
If the paper cannot get through, next steps?
How big are water holes in the muffler?
Byte
Byte, the head bolts I am talking about are on my 300TDi, I forgot we were talking about a V8.
The bolts I think you are referring to are on the top of the plenum and if I remember correctly they are allen bolts and you need an allen key. Any other bolts you will have to work out for yourself, put a socket on the head of the bolt till you get one that fits correctly.
If the seal is buggered (torn or ripped), yes, try adjusting the post that the door lock latches onto, you can move it in until you get a tight seal.
Just plug the hole and see if it helps, Regards Frank.
hi frank.
just had a look at the rear door locking mechanism (inside door).
It is very loose, with one screw missing and the other cannot be tightened or loosened and has stripped head.
What are the specs of these 2 phillips head screws?
How can i remove the other screw?
It seems this is a key root cause of the exhaust fume leak inside our vehicle.
Byte
Maybe you can cut a slot in the stripped head and use a flat blade screwdriver, use an angle grinder to cut the slot. I don't know what size the screw is, but I would take one of the screws out of the top of the front guard and see if it will fit, if it does take it along to a hardware/auto spares and see if you can get some replacements, Regards Frank.
I had a similar problem with rear door, both water and fume ingress. Changed the seal twice (2nd hand parts) then ended up going to Clark Rubber and bought some self adesive strip (approx. 25mm wide x 2-3mm thick; petrol resistant) and stuck on the body of car to align with seal on door. Over time the door had gone out of alignment or been sligtly bent from climbing up to roof racks etc. Anyway, the extra bit of rubber proved to be be the key. Problem solved.
I don't get it. Surely by sealing off the rear exhaust vents will mean that the flow through air movement will be nil?
Opening the windows will only result in noise & wind buffeting. For mine I would leave them free for fresh air coming in to exhaust through & out.
From memory, the vents are flaps that should be free to move under internal air pressure.
Try this.
Close all windows & doors tight. Switch fan on, to High on Vent ie. fresh air in.
Go to rear of vehicle & place your hand under each rear corner up near the chassis rail & you will feel the inside air belting out. You could also bung some coloured smoke inside the cabin area if you want but not really neccessary if your fan is working ok.
Interested to hear your thougths on this one Tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4bee
Byte
Thought I'd add to the discussion as I'd noticed these little vents too. Mine were not taped up (panels were opened up first time by me) Apparently they are the "one way air extraction vents" and are meant to open automatically (ie when there is positive cabin pressure) to allow fresh air through. When you are recirculating the interior air, the pressure wont be positive, therefore the little rubber flaps will be shut, leaving all that aircon goodness in the cabin.
There is a mention in the d1 workshop manual, section 80 page 2.
(I found a copy at link http://www.mylandy.com.my/wp-content...hop_Manual.pdf)
I noticed your rear door needed a bit of therapy. In section 76 there are some diagrams that might be handy.
Regarding the fumes, I found cracks and a couple of holes in the welds of the resonator at the back. When the car is running carefully run your hand close, and you have a leak if you can feel "puffs"/airflow. I couldnt see much, but certainly felt it. I put some high temp silicon on the tiny pinhole and crack and has worked a treat till i can be bothered to weld/replace it.
Id caution to add, its not the smell id be worried about, but the Carbon monoxide (odourless) that comes with it if its from the exhaust.. Its a good thing to chase the problem if its a bit fumey
Thanks for the good words Wally.
Will check the manual.
Byte