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I had to do this cycle 3 times, and was an absolute ----- of a job.
To make it workable, I had my extensions/flex couplings lined up so i was turning the ratchet at the radiator (have 50-60cm extensions in the tool box: they are a handy addition.)
suggest also buying new hex pieces at repco etc, as rounded/worn ones can damage the bolts if you really crank on them, then your really in trouble. They are only about 10$ a single.
Also, if its just the solenoid that's seized and not the starter motor, you can trip the motor with a nice fat flat head screwdriver across the terminals (beware: sparks, dangerous, will heat up the bridge made with the screwdriver to glow red and give you nasty burn if your hand is in the wrong place. However, it can be a last resort when you're stuck without help and an auto car)
For those who wish to avoid treading my path:( ie Booby Traps I fell into.)
1. 1st time i fitted the replacement motor slightly off line (in the dark by touch), meaning that the first time i tried to fire it, it cracked one of the starter motor mounts. Lesson: make sure you visualise the motor has a good seal (absolutely flat at the housing to motor interface)
2. Non bosch new replacement stuffed its drive gear within two months. Out it comes. (lesson: Bosch stuff isnt so bad)
3. Non Bosch replacement or 1st starter motor stuffed marginal ring gear. Out comes gearbox to fit new ring gear...
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Thanks!
Any advice on what size hex to buy please?
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I think I used an 8 or 9 metric (Id bought a few for a brake job on a vw). But thinking about it would most likely to be imperial of some sort. Ill check my tools today and check what I used.
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Just be very very sure that it is a snug fit as a rounded out allen bolt is not a nice problem to have. I vote for 8MM, but lets wait for the man willing to lie on his back .
Regards Philip A
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Verification:Its an 8mm hex bolt, (Yep, fits snug as a bug in a rug).
So the tool ive used with success previously is an 8mm hex key socket (ie looks like a 3/8 drive socket with about 15mm of hex rod/key poking out the end.
like these:
Stanley Hand Tools :* 3/8" Drive Hex Bit Sockets
you can then create a lovely chain of extensions and flex couplings to allow you to get some decent torque onto it.
Good luck, hope it gets you back on the road soon :)
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I would get a 1/2 drive .
Depends on your current socket set , but those little buggers can be tight.
Regards Philip A
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i don't think you need to drop the exhaust manifold, that's just making more work, apart from the risk of breaking an exhaust stud
[how do i know that?]
i have replaced the starter on my v8 disco several times, i may now have learn't not to drive in really deep water!
the top internal hex bolt can de very difficult to get to until you have done it a few times, and it can be very stubborn.
you will need the allen key socket and several extensions to clear the exhaust and steering linkages, i usually take the extension to in front of the diff and then use a long handled 3/8 drive ratchet.
have fun,
once it is undone, it will usually find it's own way to the floor, so don't be under it,
your next challenge is to find a way in for the replacement, but i am sure you will manage.
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Do not use a ratchet to break a bolt loose, that's what breaker bars are for.
If you have access to an air powered impact driver (rattle gun) it will be easy, these bolts, esp. the top one can be very tight, I weigh 100 kilos and I even have trouble with them, a rattle gun, one squeeze and it's out, good luck, Regards Frank.
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Thanks so much guys. I'm heading off to repo this morning. I've GOT to get this sorted. It's cost me over $200 in cabs in the last 3 days!!!
I rang the mechanic who put the last one ond he doesn't use any lock tire which I suppose is a bonus. But he did say he uses a breaker bar and that they tend to tighten with use of the vehicle.
And I'm still amazed at the sums.......who would have thought my petrol guzzling disco is cheaper for short trips than bloody public transport!!!!
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Sorry sorry for the spelling! Trying to do it on my phone!
