Thread: Few probs...my 'new' D1

the fuel pump, drive relay, pressure regulator, TPS or MAF may be gone and as for the lock issue theres a spring in the locking mechanism that will have lost tension its cheap enough to replace (kits of springs occasionally turn up on Ebay) as a DIY item and it takes about an hour per door as you have to remove the trim, the window frame and the locking mechanism to change it.

Clean the hot-wire in the maf with electrical spray cleaner and set the tps and maf voltages per the PDF which if you search you'll find in here somewhere.

That fixed my idle and several other weird issues.

could the idle be down to a dodgy ignition module on the dizzy. Mine was doing that for about 2 weeks before it gave up the ghost.

Ok, been having a play with it. Fitted the new vac advance to the dissy and set the timing to 9' BTDC (was 4'). The non starting 1st time in the morning thing disapeared, but it will still sometimes stall intermintly when hot. Seems to run better and picked up a bit on fuel economy.

It done it a few times in a row on the missus, and for some reason when it stopped she got out and removed the fuel cap, which she said released a heap of pressure from the tank. It didn't do it again.

Could this be a cause of the stalling issue? It apears the tank is vented via the charcoal canister which is vented to the engine via a solenoid valve???

Cleaned the MAF, but havn't adjusted the TPS as yet (searching and downloading stuff with a 24Kpbs dialup connection is a rather time consuming task ) but will do this when i find the info.

Also, the mussus has decided she wants a set of black sunnys with mudies for bush tyres, and leave the alloys and AT's for general duties. Whats available wheel wise and whats the best offset to go for. I sugested std steel disco rims and a paint job, which she wasn't happy with.

Will most likley stay with 245/75R16's for both. The 16x7 'Performance' alloys on it are are marked -26.

Originally Posted by Rick1970

it will still sometimes stall intermittently when hot.

First thing to do is buy a spray can of "Circuit Board" cleaner
Remove the MAF
Remove the C clip in front of the mesh grill (Jewelers screwdriver blade works well)
Remove the mesh grill.
Look inside the MAF and you will see a 6mm hole.
Shine a torch in the hole and you will see a wire filament.
Clean the wire with Circuit board spray.

Unscrew the Idle control valve at the rear LH side of the motor .... Clean with the spray.
Undo the rubber air intake hose and clean the butterfly + housing.
Remove all motor vacuum vent hoses and clean in Kerosene.
Remove the fire trap can on the LH rocker cover with the 3/4" vacuum vent hose and drop it into Kero and clean it (if it has the fire trap can).

Remove the Vacuum advance hose to the top of the plenum housing and clear it with a pin.
Suck on the vacuum advance hose both ways to make sure it is clear and all connection holes are not blocked.

See how that goes before you touch the TPS

Originally Posted by Rick1970

and for some reason when it stopped she got out and removed the fuel cap, which she said released a heap of pressure from the tank. It didn't do it again.

Good Q, as I'd like to know if this is normal also ...... But in the meantime,
Never fill the tank to the very top, as you will cause the tank to split and leak from the pressure.

Cheers
Mike

Good Q, as I'd like to know if this is normal also ...... But in the meantime,
Never fill the tank to the very top, as you will cause the tank to split and leak from the pressure.

No that is normal.
The fuel fumes are vented into the inlet manifold by a solonoid which is controlled by the ECU to only open at certain times. you will see it above the black canister in the engine bay.
AFAIK it opens while cruising on light throttle only, so if you are idling for a while the pressure can build up but it is not a problem.
Regards Philip A

Cheers for the input guys.

Cleaned and checked today. TPS was initally reading .26v, but the mounting screws were loose and it moved around a tad. Set to .33v. MAF was reading .85v and someone had already been at the adjuster (ie butchered). Anyway set this to 1.3v and it seems to start better, idle smoother and a bit more responsive on the throttle.

Havn't driven it enough yet to see if it solved the stalling problem but fingers crossed.

Cheers
Rick