good call, If your going to go that far into it (and I reccomend the interferance fit tophat liner style if you do) why not set the inlet up for liquid LPG injection even if you block it off with screwdown bungs the hard works done.
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good call, If your going to go that far into it (and I reccomend the interferance fit tophat liner style if you do) why not set the inlet up for liquid LPG injection even if you block it off with screwdown bungs the hard works done.
Also a good suggestion. :D
Engine is out tonight with the kind assistance provided by my FIL. The top 3 bellhousing bolts were great fun. :eek:
I'll start pulling it down over the next few days.
Tons more access if you strip the heads, engine mounts and manifolds before removing the engine.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by MacMan
Yes, yes and yes. The heads and manifolds came off days ago. Still only just got one bolt out. Most annoying that there was a selection of metric and imperial heads and I nearly jiggered myself after damaging one of the high up ones with a 9/16 socket. They're actually 14mm. :eek:
Crisis averted by hammering on an impact socket using about 5 extension bars.
The book says to remove the engine mounts and then to lower the engine on to the chassis - it worked for me. The hardest ones were on the side and I found mine to be 9/16".
Looks like I will have to all of this again shortly as i think I have a slipping liner :(
Cheers Charlie
Update on this one...
I'm just about to order some 9.35:1 high comp pistons, cam, lifters and some other bits and pieces. New flanged liners will be machined to suit the pistons once they're in hand.
I have decided to go with just a standard 3.9 EFI cam. I always liked the way it would burble along at barely above idle, especially on gas, and take off smoothly without the need to change gears. I can only assume that returning everything to new spec and having proper gasket sealing will make it better than it's ever been in the time we've had it. Changing to another cam profile is an unknown and I've had enough surprises!
So, in terms of cam and lifters - does anyone have any advise on whether or not to go genuine or aftermarket? I'm looking to order from Rimmer Bros. The original lifters came out looking good, so I figure I could do worse than invest an extra $100 in getting genuine. What about the cam? There's a big difference in price and the machining work is already blowing out to uncomfortable levels so I'm wanting to reduce costs wherever possible.
Look forward to input.
Go for quality with the camshaft - I recommend Crow Cams.
Tell me more about the 9-35 pistons? Do you have a website?
Cheers Charlie
According to the tracking, my new pistons and some other bits are already in the country. Outstanding since I ordered 3.5 days ago!
Chazza, Piston Set 3.9 - High Compression 9.35:1 Standard Size Inc Rings at www.rimmerbros.co.uk is the link to the set. My block will have the sleeves bored to suit. It really is an extravagance to fit them, but in the end the pistons comprise about 10% of the total project cost and although I'm sore about the total outlay I am hoping that with time I feel better about going all the way with it. Considering the Disco spends most of its time breathing LPG, 8.13:1 was incredibly modest. 9.35: should see no issues with ULP running and anything more than that would have needed substantial tuning after the build.
Hmmm nice price!
I am in the same boat as you and need to re-sleeve, hence the interest in the high compression pistons.
I will talk to my engine man who gets sensational prices on parts and see if he can match it.
Incidentally; Premium ULP works superbly with the 9.35 compression ratio - I used to run it in my P6.
If LPG burns better at 9.35:1 then I am sold on the idea.
Thanks for the info, I didn't realise that the pistons could be changed to alter the compression ratio, I thought the heads had to be changed,
Cheers Charlie