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Thread: to dare or not to dare?

  1. #1
    Discovery-94 Guest

    to dare or not to dare?

    Well its that time of the year again..... to spend money on the Disco

    This time on the menu:
    Gearbox removal. (300TDI manual)

    The main aim of this little exercise should be to replace the rear main seal. It has leaked as long as I had it, however I would now consider it a fully blown dripping problem, leaving a good stain even when pulling over for just 1o mins or so.

    I did think to myself, maybe this should be the first time I shall pay someone to fix my Landrover for me, however firstly it is far too expensive for me and secondly I walked past a gearbox trolley jack on the weekend and am now fantasizing about doing it myself.

    I would like to do as much on the way as I can - so far on the list would be
    - rear main seal
    - clutch
    - get flywheel skimmed
    - seals between transferbox & gearbox
    - gaskets on bottom of transfercase

    Has anybody got any addition to make to this list and more importantly what is everyones opinion who has done this job before.

    Can a first timer like me tackle it in the shed?
    What would be possible stumble stones (or rocks) on the way?
    Are any special LR tool required along the way?
    And could anyone recommend someone in Perth who skims flywheels?

    Thanks in advance, any help is really appreciated.

    Simone

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    We did the clutch on the Boys Tdi 200 and reco'd the Gbox & TCase at the same time, we changed the clutch release bearing and strengthed/modified the arm. I was told that if it was just the clutch that it was easier to remove the engine, someone else will have that answer that one. We removed the TC & GB. We put a 50x50x5 SHS through the drivers window and out the passengers hanging fromslings at either end from the carport beams with a chain hoist off the SHS down through the Center console round the GB. Be careful it is a heavy assy our carport beams are fairly solid. We removed the crossmember so we could lower the rear of the TC giving more room to get at the upper Bell housing bolts just watch the cables/pipes between the cyld head and the bulkhead.We fitted a heavy duty clutch but then realised you can get one with a passivation coating to reduce corrosion of the metal parts of the clutch, does anyone know if this is a worthwhile option.All the best Ollie

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Have never done it, but will have to at some stage, but if your in the northern suburbs and need another pair of hands, drop me a pm
    Cheers
    Dave

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    spigot bearing, thrust bearing, engine mounts, gearbox mounts,

    tcase seals inspect, probably replace
    Tcase intermediate shaft shims.
    clutch flex hose
    Exhaust flange gasket+ studs
    exhaust mounts
    UJ's

    That'll do for starters.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    I did the rear main seal on my V8 recently and was faced with the same problems as yourself about getting the box out and the equipment required. In my case because the boxes don't leak, it was easier to take the engine out.

    I used a Speedi-sleeve which was bigger than the crank journal as an installation tool - it worked brilliantly,

    Cheers Charlie

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Douglas Park, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discovery-94 View Post
    The main aim of this little exercise should be to replace the rear main seal. It has leaked as long as I had it, however I would now consider it a fully blown dripping problem, leaving a good stain even when pulling over for just 1o mins or so.
    It would pay to replace the rear main bearing cap T seals while you have the gearbox out too.
    Scott

  7. #7
    Discovery-94 Guest
    Awesome, thats great information to start with guys!
    Gives me a few things to research...

    including clutch release bearing, spigot bearing, thrust bearing, Tcase shaft shims and rear main bearing cap T seal

    Have done all UJs about 3 weeks ago, replaced the rubber exhaust mounts last year and will have a good look at the engine and gearbox mounts while I'm at it!

    I think I might stick to the trolley jack option and dropping the gearboxes though....
    V8s might be easy to lift, but to get the head off (and on) a 300TDI I already encountered difficulties of not having enough room to lift it straight up, I dont want to start to imagine what will happen if I attempt to lift the whole thing.


    Keep the information coming guys, will give you an update soon on how I'm going with my plans....

    Cheers!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    you dont lift the engine up, you slide it forwards then up..
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Mandurah WA
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    I see the March edition of Landrover Owner International has an article covering the main seal replacement on a 300TDI.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Brisbane
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    I've had the gear box and transfer case out of mine twice in the ten years I've had it. First time, I used a beam through the windows with a block and tackle hung from it. The second I used my mate's workshop, hoist and transmission jack.
    The first method was MUCH easier, particularlly when reassembling. The gearbox and transfer case balance very nicely from the lifting bolt on the back of the transfer case, and hanging by a chain was easy to rock the gearbox to get the correct alignment. With the weight of the gearbox/transfer, the transmission jack was much harder to get this alignment correct.

    My $0.02 for what it's worth.

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