Possibly the amplifier as well, there is a good guide here on how to replace with a bosch item.
My father recently purchased a stock standard 98 D1 SE V8 with 115,000km on it. He has a work car for Monday to Friday so it doesn’t get used much but we’ve found the fuel economy to be ridiculously high and testing confirmed it at around 43.2L for 100km. This is an issue both expense wise but also as the tanks range is so limited.
So far I have changed all fluids (engine oil and filter, automatic transmission filter and fluid, transfer box, front and rear diff oils), changed the spark plugs (NGK standards gapped according to Rave), the air filter and replaced two ignition leads which had damaged plug boots.
While there I found the vacuum line to the distributors vacuum advance to have perished at the boots and the suck test indicated that the diaphragm had an issue.
A new vacuum advance unit is on its way, would this be the sole cause for such poor fuel economy? Or is there other areas that I should check? We are aiming to get it to a more reasonable 20L per 100km range which I think is reasonable...
Possibly the amplifier as well, there is a good guide here on how to replace with a bosch item.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
When you're self diagnosing like this(which many of us do) it's best to do change things one at a time and test.
Everything you've done so far seems well thought out too.
The other thing to check for once the vac advance is fitted, will be the air flow meter/sensor.
On all the injected Rover(SD1) vehicles I've had they were all playing up. Damned expensive things to change back then too!
Other thing to be mindful of are the injectors themselves, they get dirty/worn and the spray pattern is fubar.
Arthur.
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
Unfortunately my only experience with injected RV8's has been with SD1's.
(although soon will have my D2 V8 on the road too).
As for injectors, I had a few piled up over the years, and bought some more.
My mechanic had the tester cleaner doodad tool and due to the difficult installation(for me), I got him to test/clean them all and install the good ones.
Do plenty of research on the topic, as I think I remember reading recently(not back then when I had my RV8s!!) that some fords used the same injector types .. so could be an alternative if prices are lower.
Also have you checked if your dads D1 has O2 sensor(s) too?
Arthur.
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
Thanks. I assume this is what you refer to Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024 ?
Is there any way to test the current one? We don’t seem to be having the back firing etc issues that others mention in that thread.
Could be the cold start sensor is stuffed. ETC8496. There are 2 similar sensors that are screwed into the intake manifold, so you need to check the correct one. Depending how it may have failed, it will cause high fuel consumption as the engine will be running rich all the time.
Is it getting hot quickly? Sounds like it is still in warm up program... thermostat needs to open quickly. At least 82degree one.
Set timing to 10deg or even 12 if vac advance iffy. Also check that the fpr is not perforated this will draw extra fuel in to the inlet manifold.
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Cheers JC.
Will check. What sort of time frame should it be taking to get to normal operating temperature? Is he factory dash guage sufficient for judging this?
is that advance BTDC?
Is it the same method as checking the condition of the diaphragm for the distributors vacuum advance module - ie connect a vacuum hose up and suck on it?
EDIT: found V8 Fuel Pressure Regulator symptoms? which provides some related information.
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