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Manufacturers always err on the side of caution and pick a middle of the road approach none moreso than LR, thats why pretty much every other officianado advise to raise tire pressures above the manufacturers placarded figures. But this is also largely dependent of the condition on the rest of the suspension and mods to it.
I'm having this debate at the moment after replacing my BFG ATs with Goodyear MTRs, which are a much more aggressive tyre. I was running the BFG ATs at 30 front and 34 rear, which seemed OK on the highway. Now I'm not sure about the MTRs. I put 40 in all around and it was far too stiff, so I've dropped it to 32 front and 36 rear for the highway and will try that. I worked that out by driving it onto our clean new carport slab and seeing if the white dust covered all the surface lugs. What do you think - is that too high?
I have 265/70-16 Mickey T STZ . I run 38 all round on the road , it works great , they wear evenly and has a great ride . Offroad il drop them down to 18psi all round and it loves it :)
Hope that helps
The plate on the doorsill recommends a lower pressure at the front than the rear. That's for the original highway tyres of course. I'm wondering if that still applies with MTs?
reopening an old thread but i have always found 4-6psi more in the rear makes rrc and disco1 ride and steer much better than when all are at the same pressure.
here i was putting 40psi all round thinking it's good for tire wear. which it is.
might drop it down once the disco is back on the road. i always thought it rode a bit stiff, thought maybe the previous owner put heavy duty suspension. maybe with a bit less in there it might make a difference.
on a good note though my tires look as new as the day i got her.
Each tyre brand will differ but 36-40 seems to give the most even wear if a little firm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fausto79
I run 34 front and 38 rear. Tyres wear well and the ride is quite good. I put the rears up to 40-42 if towing anything other than a box trailer.
Registered to this forum to answer.
Live in Holland Europe , and once got hold of the formula the tire- and car-makers use to calculate tyrepressure for given load on tyre, and went running with it. Googled much for tire/tyre-pressure and gathered lots of information in time about it and maximum load of tyres and pressure needed for that.
Will not introduce myself in a seperate topic , because I only react on tyre-related questions and dont own a landrover.
What I learned about landrovers is that they mostly have oversised tires, sometimes 1 tire can bar the whole Maximum Permissable Axle weight even if it is a normal car tire, wich bares its maximum load at 2.5 bar/36psi in EUR system.
For that reason , if you would calculate a lowest pressure at wich the tires wont get to hot so they damage, it will be mayby even 1.2 bar/16psi?
Even including a comfortable reserve wich dont give bumping mayby even 20 psi is enaugh.
I am able to calculate that for you and will give rest of text I stored from other forum for the data you need for that. Could not find the English version so American with a lot of tire instead of tyre.
Tirepressure advice is all about load on tire and speed ( and sometimes about alighnment - camber angle).
So if you can give details of car and tires , I can calculate an advice pressure with some reserve for things like, pressure-loss in time, unequall loading R/L, incidental extra load, misreadings of pressure scales,and misyudging of weight, etc.
This is from tires next and can be read from sidewall:
Maximum load or loadindex.
Kind of tire to determine the AT-pressure/pressure needed for the maximum load up to maximum speed of tire, or if lower 160km/99m/h/reference-pressure, wich is not the maximum pressure of tire.
Maximum speed of tire, most given as letter ( Q=160km/99m/h,N=140km/86m/h fi)
If you have offroad or tires looking like that , with large profile blocs that cover a part of sidewall, also mention, they are allowed lesser deflection then a normal road tire, then the tire maker used to determine the maximum load (to my conclusion the case for the Bridgestone tires on Ford Explorer in the Ford/Firestone affaire).
If you cant find all of it give sises of tire and Loadkind, then I will google for it.
From car next and mostly can be found on same plate as the original pressure advices:
GAWR and GVWR ( Gross Axle/Vehicle Weight Rating)
But best would be to determine the real weights in your use on seperate tires or estimate it as acurate as possible, by weighing per wheel(pair) or axle.
Maximum speed , you dont go over for even a minute in your use, eventually different for different situations, for instance when towing or fully loaded.This apart from trafic regulations, if you drive faster then allowed give that speed. Nature punnisches with tire-failure, police only with a penalty.
Give all that and I will calculate and give a picture of one of my filled in spreadsheets in my answer.
If other then original tires, other advice is needed, a stiffer tire ( fi C-load instead of P-tire) needs a higher pressure for the same load, or the other way around, has lower loadcapacity for the same pressure.
Greatings from a Dutch pigheaded self-declared tire-pressure-specialist.