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Thread: diff advice

  1. 23rd September 2012, 06:06 PM #1
    gimposarillios's Avatar
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    diff advice

    Hi guys,

    After a day trip i have ruined another part of my car. My rear diff has seemed to eat itself and te throw its insides through the outer caseing. Made for a tough ride home.

    So the diff is stuffed so what better time to upgrage to a locker. Now im not made of cash so i need to find the most price effective way to replace and install the diff and locker. Im not overly mechanicaly apt but can usually sus out most issues. If its a reletively straight foward job then i can install myself otherwise ill have to pay someone. Also need to find where to source the bits.

    Any help with this would be fantastic, cheers
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  2. 23rd September 2012, 06:21 PM #2
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    Blknight.aus
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    takes a bout an hour and a half to do

    chock the wheels
    undo the flanges
    pull the axles (if they are nt broken you're laughing)
    remove the rear propshaft from the diff
    undo the bolts holding the housing in (~65nm)
    swear at me because I forgot to tell you to drain it first
    add sealastic to the replacement center and replace
    install rear propshaft (loctite 243 on the bolts if you dont replace the nylocs)
    clean drive flange faces
    add sealastic
    install axles and
    tighten up drive flange bolts (65nm)
    blow up rear diff and swear at me for not telling you to put oil in.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


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  3. 23rd September 2012, 06:33 PM #3
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    a whole hole

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    takes a bout an hour and a half to do

    chock the wheels
    undo the flanges
    pull the axles (if they are nt broken you're laughing)
    remove the rear propshaft from the diff
    undo the bolts holding the housing in (~65nm)
    swear at me because I forgot to tell you to drain it first
    add sealastic to the replacement center and replace
    install rear propshaft (loctite 243 on the bolts if you dont replace the nylocs)
    clean drive flange faces
    add sealastic
    install axles and
    tighten up drive flange bolts (65nm)
    blow up rear diff and swear at me for not telling you to put oil in.
    Err, what's he going to do with the pumpkin?

    it's got a hole in it.

    Any chance of a photo to see if it's repairable?
    .
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  4. 23rd September 2012, 06:37 PM #4
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    I'll add photos tomorrow as iv dumped the car at work. Cheers for the input guys
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  5. 24th September 2012, 07:19 AM #5
    CU55TM Disco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrinklearthur View Post
    Err, what's he going to do with the pumpkin?

    it's got a hole in it.

    Any chance of a photo to see if it's repairable?
    .

    Isnt that what all the Silastic was for
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  6. 24th September 2012, 12:41 PM #6
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
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    so he'll only swear at me the once.

    panel beat and braize.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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  7. 24th September 2012, 02:49 PM #7
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    image-3877126486.jpg



    image-3525801003.jpg



    image-4075398408.jpg



    image-1083131300.jpg


    It fair **** itself. There's 2 holes where bits have come through
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  8. 24th September 2012, 03:13 PM #8
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    holey pumpkins batman

    Only if you have one lying around I would change the diff housing, as most of the messy work is done when you have to take the diff centre out and axle half shafts out.

    But with a ballpein hammer and a lump of railway iron, those holes could be closed up a bit and then weld some patches over them, the diff centre still needs repairing.

    If you could find a cheap, low kilometre, complete later model diff and housing assembly with fine splines at a wrecker, that would be better again and just change the lot over.
    .
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  9. 24th September 2012, 03:37 PM #9
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    Get someone to cut the pan off and weld on a butt weld pipe cap. The pipe cap is only $40, not a huge job to weld on. It will also stiffen the axle.
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  10. 24th September 2012, 06:17 PM #10
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    If you are after and complete rear diff disc to disc including the centre, I have one posted in the wrecking section. It's from a 96 D1 with 160k on it. PM me if you need your interested.
    Cheers, David.
    My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
    D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.
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