Disco TDi 300 Coolant circulation

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Originally Posted by Silverone

Your saying blocking the baffle in the radiator doesnt make sense but those that have done it have better control in the summer?. Also blocking the flow to the heater does not does not block the flow to the radiator in it fact directs more coolant to it.

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It was a typo, I was bolting out the door, re-read the post now.

Block the bleed hole in the divider plate in the rad makes a difference, and taking the heater core out of circulation definitely made things run hotter.

Yes, I agree, theory says you'd need air passing over the core as in the heater baffle being open, but I can only report that the engine temps were definitely hotter without a heater core in place.

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Originally Posted by rick130

It was a typo, I was bolting out the door, re-read the post now.

Block the bleed hole in the divider plate in the rad makes a difference, and taking the heater core out of circulation definitely made things run hotter.

Yes, I agree, theory says you'd need air passing over the core as in the heater baffle being open, but I can only report that the engine temps were definitely hotter without a heater core in place.

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Fair enough, As stated in initial thread I have blocked the hole in the radiator baffle, managed to do that from the plug hole in top of the radiator. Also what I have done is restrict the the return flow from the heater to a 3/16 hole. results looking promising but not really tested yet. The heater still produces mildly warm air rather than hot.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

It was a typo, I was bolting out the door, re-read the post now.

Block the bleed hole in the divider plate in the rad makes a difference, and taking the heater core out of circulation definitely made things run hotter.

Yes, I agree, theory says you'd need air passing over the core as in the heater baffle being open, but I can only report that the engine temps were definitely hotter without a heater core in place.

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Just had a thought, without a heater core in place there would be very little resistance to flow, the result would be more coolant than normal going via the heater hoses & less to the radiator. Im assuming you just had the heater hoses bridged .

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Originally Posted by Silverone

Just had a thought, without a heater core in place there would be very little resistance to flow, the result would be more coolant than normal going via the heater hoses & less to the radiator. Im assuming you just had the heater hoses bridged .

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Yeah, I thought about that too, although there's eff all restriction through the heater core, they flow pretty well.

BTW, I missed that you'd already blocked the bleed in the divider plate. Curious how you did it through the top bleed plug hole ?

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Originally Posted by rick130

Yeah, I thought about that too, although there's eff all restriction through the heater core, they flow pretty well.

BTW, I missed that you'd already blocked the bleed in the divider plate. Curious how you did it through the top bleed plug hole ?

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I wrote a very detailed description of how I done it but went to post it & I had been log out.
So a short version. A bronze welding rod attached to a heavly modified 1/2 brass bolt which is held in place by a small spring under the brass bleed plug The holie in the baffle is 1/2.

I was having high temp problems with my 300, I had the bypass hole plugged and then a 3mm hole drilled in to avoid any air locks, radiator was cleaned at the same time , replaced the thermostat and the viscous fan clutch. It now runs between 83-89c under load or not, air con on doing highway speeds in Nth Queensland. If all components are in good condition, cooling system is more than adequate.