Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 14 of 14

Thread: 300Tdi 1997 Disco thermostat housing

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Yack
    Posts
    1,388
    Total Downloaded
    2.78 MB
    Thanks for this post.

    How would I go about adding a manual overide ie a manual on/off switch for the thermo fans?

    I have another engine temp gauge in cab which I monitor to decide if I want the fans on or not.





    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    first of do something useful with the haynes, give it to a pulp mill so it can be reprinted as a newspaper or used as toilet paper. I've been known to stack them and drill them together and use them for wheel chocks and anyone who turns up at my place with a vehicle with a problem that they've tried to fix "according to haynes" gets the price jacked up.

    with that step completed goto the dave can do IT banner and then purchase the Rave CD suitable for your vehicle.

    there are 3 senders in the same area

    a small single wire jobby which is the temperature sender

    the two on the elbow. one kicks the fans on under all circumstances if the engine begins to over heat (even if the AC is off providing that all the fuses and electricals are functional) the other cuts the AC out completely.

    to work out which is which just probe them with a meter, the one that is NC with the engine at room temp is the one for the AC cut out and the one that is NO is the one for the fan override.

    to test them set up a good fan in front of the engine bay, open and leave open the bonnet remove the shroud, remove the fan VC wind the windows down and run the engine up at high idle with the AC on. the first thing you should notice is the fans coming on an staying on (you may need to pull the AC fan relay/fuse) then the temp gauge should swing off of the normal position to just under the hot/overheat point and then the AC pump should cut out. as soon as the AC pump cuts out from the overheat protection re-enable the AC fans, set low idle and turn on the fan in front of the engine bay. leave the AC off.

    ON EDIT....

    you NEED a good infrared thermometer to monitor the temps at the senders if it gets past 120deg C carry out the cool off procedures of going to low idle and getting the air flowing through the radiator, you should also have a hose ready to spray gently onto the radiator. (the normal temperature sender should move from the middle to hot at about 105-110 and then begin to climb rapidly into the red overheat mark)

    DO NOT just shut it down the heat soak in the block will be enough to boil off the coolant in the engine and may be enough to either force the cooling system to vent out the cap or cause a hose/tank/radiator failure.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,516
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by edddo View Post
    Thanks for this post.

    How would I go about adding a manual overide ie a manual on/off switch for the thermo fans?

    I have another engine temp gauge in cab which I monitor to decide if I want the fans on or not.
    depends on if you want, off/auto/on.

    If you want auto/on (which makes sense to me) using M+F spade crimp terminal, with some 2 core double insulated cable pick up off the 2 wires on the sender that turns the fans on on overheat and connect it to a single pole single throw latching N/O switch of your choice.

    Off/Auto/On can also be achieved but it needs a little more work and doing it the simplest way will result in a switch that gives Auto/Off/On. To do it you're going to use the same basic principle but you need a double run of 2 core wire, the same joiners some standard joiners and a Double pole, double throw, latching center off switch. To wire it up....

    As per the AUTO/on wire up one set of contacts to bridge the over heat fans on switch, for the other, theres a relay that drives the fans, cut that and wire it to the other set of contacts for the switch.

    (on edit)

    For the relay, cut the earth or signal wire not the main power wire to the fan or the main supply wire, the current will be too high for most switches
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Yack
    Posts
    1,388
    Total Downloaded
    2.78 MB
    Thanks Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    depends on if you want, off/auto/on.

    If you want auto/on (which makes sense to me) using M+F spade crimp terminal, with some 2 core double insulated cable pick up off the 2 wires on the sender that turns the fans on on overheat and connect it to a single pole single throw latching N/O switch of your choice.

    Off/Auto/On can also be achieved but it needs a little more work and doing it the simplest way will result in a switch that gives Auto/Off/On. To do it you're going to use the same basic principle but you need a double run of 2 core wire, the same joiners some standard joiners and a Double pole, double throw, latching center off switch. To wire it up....

    As per the AUTO/on wire up one set of contacts to bridge the over heat fans on switch, for the other, theres a relay that drives the fans, cut that and wire it to the other set of contacts for the switch.

    (on edit)

    For the relay, cut the earth or signal wire not the main power wire to the fan or the main supply wire, the current will be too high for most switches

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,516
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by edddo View Post
    Thanks Dave
    Pleasure
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!