Thread: Looking at first Fourby

Assuming it's a 300TDI:

If you can, find out when the timing belt was last done. Needs to be done every ~80,000kms or risk big problems.

Not sure how to "check the cooling system", but it's definitely something that needs to be in good condition if you make the purchase. Recommend having the radiator rodded/cleaned. Check if the coolant is at least clean and debris free?
Check what colour the expansion tank is. White=good after market. Black=factory installed, needs replacing.
Top radiator plug & top thermostat housing plug. Plastic=bad, needs replacing. Brass=good.

The expansion tank and radiator plugs could be an indication of whether the cooling system has been looked after.

State of the suspension bushes can be checked, but are all consumable items, so you should budget to replace some as part of normal servicing.

Common spots for rust I know of are:
Alpine windows - looks for bulge/bubbles around the rubber seal.
Front footwells under carpet. Difficult to check, but worth a look.

If high mileage TDI engine then there are a few things to check. On start up a puff of smoke is normal but after that it should be pretty clear, constant white/grey/black smoke at idle and you have a problem. A bit of smoke under boost is normal but if its belching there could be a problem or the fuel pump has been turned up too high. On test run if smoke is a concern get the head pressure tested and the injectors tested.

Head gaskets tend to let go at 150k EDIT:whoops thats miles... around 250k in kilometers but should be changed well before that - so if no solid record of the HG having been done you SHOULD change it. V.Cheap if you do it yourself, could be around $500 for a mech.

Overheat is a quick killer so have the cooling system backflushed. New radiators are cheap, worth going new IMO if looks like engine has original rad. Do that and you should run cool even on a 40C+ day.

Timing belt a MUST do if no solid service record.

I'd say its requirement now to put on a better temp gauge (VDO) with matched sender and a low coolant alarm.

Generally agree with manic, although I'm going to discuss.

Originally Posted by manic

Head gaskets tend to let go at 150k but should be changed well before that - so if no solid record of the HG having been done you SHOULD change it. V.Cheap if you do it yourself, could be around $500 for a mech.

Personally I believe this is only true if the engine is overheated, thus the emphasis on the cooling system.

As I'm sure your point is - in relation to a vehicle with nearly 300k on the clock though, it's somewhere between possible and likely it's been overheated at least once, so if you are capable of doing a head gasket change yourself, it would be a peace of mind to know it's in good order.

Originally Posted by manic

Overheat is a quick killer so have the cooling system backflushed. New radiators are cheap, worth going new IMO if looks like engine has original rad. Do that and you should run cool even on a 40C+ day.

Completely agree.

Originally Posted by manic

Timing belt a MUST do if no solid service record.

Definitely. Very cheap if you can do it yourself.

Originally Posted by manic

I'd say its requirement now to put on a better temp gauge (VDO) with matched sender and a low coolant alarm.

Literally 5 minutes ago I opened a package with a new VDO mechanical temp gauge to install in my Disco....

^^ 250k is more reasonable. Perhaps I should have just said, "agree with all".

Thanks Guys,

just missed out the Disco, but will keep looking, I am after a D1 300TDI, has to be manual for my kids as a learner(well actually for me, but don't tell the missus), can't stand "P" platers in hotted up Autos, seen too many wrapped around trees. thanks for the advice on what to look for,

Cheers,
Chris

Just been to look at a 98 D1, 370k on the clock, engine well serviced, but has never had head gasket replaced, replaced fuel pump, and gearbox and clutch at 310k, only rust i could find under all the dirt was in below drivers side alpine. other problems rear passenger window actuator not working, gremlin in the speedo...ocasionally the speedo fails to register and drops back to zero when in motion, initially wanting $5k, but just replaced rear bearings and uni joints and looking for $6k. not using any oil or coolant between 5k services



question are:

• do I avoid
• if I proceed how much will an alpine rust repair job be (only 1 side)?
• is head gasket a definite if still holding up well?
• is it prudent to fit a new radiator if things have been ok up to now?
• are the speedo gremlins easy to hunt down and exorcise?

cheers,
Chris

Definitely avoid, too much for that mileage. Keep looking till you find one with less k's for less $$$.

I'd have to agree for $6k you can get less kms. A lot less I would think...