Front recovery point for D1?

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Originally Posted by SouthOz

650 to 24000 lb WWL with a hole size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches seems light duty? As a rigging site (the one I linked) I thought you would be familiar with it.

Dave

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Dave, the rigging site that I trust to have the correct info is the NSW Work Cover Rigging Guide, not some bloke that is putting up info from wherever he can get it.
I don't class a 10Ton (24000lb) eye bolt as heavy duty, I have lifted ship engines weighing hundreds of tons using collared eye bolts (big ones), I repeat the examples of eye bolts you have shown are very light duty and I would advise that that style of eye bolt is not suitable, they might be suitable for straight lifts, but with collars of the size illustrated I wouldn't trust them as far as I could throw them. Regards Frank.

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Originally Posted by roverrescue

Thanks Frank,
so your plan is using a 1in diameter nut or 1in diameter thread section on the eye bolt.
I think M16 is 27mm nut size... M16 is afair bit lighter than 1" shank in tension.

and with regards to " using a snatch strap is an uknown as no 2 snatches are the same"

I no longer own a dynamic strap - too many sketchy outcomes on stuck vehicles with them - give me slow and steady any day.

My last snatch strap died a slow death flat towing a pajero out of Lakefield a few years ago. I think we had 6 knots in it by the end from fraying on the dirt. Got the job done and then got binned.

S

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S, I agree, I have a snatch strap, 5 years now and only ever used it once as an extension strap in a hairy tow up a steep mountain.
A 1" dia. threaded section with a nut to suit welded to the 1/2 plate, with the correct size hole for the Tap, which will be threaded through the back end of the nut to align the thread in the plate with the nut thread. There should be about 1 1/2" of thread for the eye bolt to purchase on.
The reason I'm making up a box section to go inside the chassis rail ends is that the bull bar mounts/brackets sit over the top and sides of the chassis rails. It would be probably easier (and I might change my design when I actually start on the project) to box the outside of the chassis with the end plate welded on the end.
I have been fortunate that I haven't been bogged and required a tow/snatch from the front, most of my recovery work has been from the rear of other vehicles.
I use my tow hitch with the towball removed and use the Vertical pin hole for the shackle. It is a straight hitch with no drop so it is as good as those solid bars with the lug on the end, or if I'm lazy I just poke the eye of the sling up the hole and secure with the hitch pin, I'll keep you posted when I start on this in a few weeks, Regards Frank.

What ever LOL. Its obvious that yours is bigger.;)

Dave

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Originally Posted by SouthOz

What ever LOL. Its obvious that yours is bigger.;)

Dave

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Dave have a look at Bullivants http://www.bullivants.com/Uploads/Bu...ardware_09.pdf they have a great range of collared eye bolts/swivel eye bolts and some really good recovery gear as well, Regards Frank.

Very old thread I know, but why create another one!

So I decided to add some front recovery points, short of not having a front bar with them on, I needed something that would help for minor recoveries (I dont do big mud holes or anything like that)

Im sure ill get some constructive criticism, all good by me :D

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5fyV4ejWqw&list=UUu3RwTvV8BtsNIuTyGkAo5w"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5fyV4ejWqw&list=UUu3RwTvV8BtsNIuTyGkAo5w[/ame]

Another approach here ... I am looking to fit something to my P38

Recovery Hook Kit

Steve

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Originally Posted by Tank

Hooks would be best, regards Frank

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i was going to say wait until Tank comments but then i saw you had already.

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Originally Posted by Fausto79

i was going to say wait until Tank comments but then i saw you had already.

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The P38 has pretty much the same issue as the Disco in that the recovery points need to drop down below the chassis level a little, hence the approach used in this kit.

I don't think it's possible to attach hooks directly to the chassis rails.

I like this approach where he has made a bracket which wraps around the chassis for extra strength

P38 Recovery Points

Anyway I have polluted this thread enough with mentions of the P38 :p

Steve