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Where in Melbourne are you? A few weeks back I made a spur of the moment purchase (regular occurrence for me) of a compression test kit if you want to give it a go.
What is the guide you have? I'm about to start searching for such a thing! Links are welcome. :)
While timing is possible, I think it's the last thing to check. Especially if this has only just started happening? Most of the other problems we're talking about are simpler and more likely. Start with them.
I'm in Beaumaris (south east) . Don't go out of your way though, plenty I can still have a crack at yet!
It feels like it has been " developing" over time....
But that may be just my perception. Didn't notice anything happen at one particular time...
That's the link to the guide I'm reading through http://www.stonefisk.com/doc-arc/def...ning_Rev.2.pdf
Cheers, Andrew
Go with that guide. It's a good one. Ian has a wealth of knowledge and he has put a whole lot of into that guide!
Don't pay too much heed to the "horror stories" of pump tuning. Obviously don't make the mistakes other may have made in the past, but it's not the hardest or scariest thing you will ever do to your disco!
As I said before, make small adjustments and test after every change. Don't start working on it if you have a schedule to work with, you will end up rushing it and that's when things go wrong. Set aside a whole day to do it. It won't take you all day, but it will mean you can relax and just enjoy fiddling with your disco. Also, if you tell the missus it will take all day, then you have a really good excuse to do other things on your car when you finish the tuning early, she won't know the difference! :p
If you're unsure of something, take a picture of it, explain the issue and someone on here should be able to lead you in the right direction.
Chris
That guide is great. Stop screw adjustment sounds perfect. I don't care about losing a few metres up a hill on the freeway, but what peevs me is not being able to get going on a hill at take off. :twisted:
just curious, did you re torque the head bolts roughly 1000ks after the new head went on?Quote:
Originally Posted by Flexual
That's what I was thinking too - Any idea how to crack the top cap off? Im reluctant to bury a screwdriver in it!Quote:
Originally Posted by Judo
The head was put on before I bought the vehicle, but I've blown the head/gasket since and had it fixed. I'm unsure if they were re-torqued the first time, and I'm certain they haven't been since I've had it.Quote:
Originally Posted by freediver
The list of things to do/check is growing at a rapid rate :o
Good advice :) I've already booked in the weekend!Quote:
Originally Posted by libertyts
To get the cap off is fairly simple, just use one or two small screwdrivers (the larger of the jewelers ones are pretty well perfect) to slow lift it up around the edges bit by bit. It takes a little bit of fiddling at first but once it's up a few mm you will able to just grab it and pull it out.
Do be careful not to squash, dent or bend it all though as it's only a mild tin or something of the sort and unless you are going to replace it with something else you will cause some waterproofing issues for yourself.
As for the head bolts, that's a good point (should have picked up on that myself), check they are torqued correctly. Make sure you use a decent torque wrench, don't just tighten them down as hard as you can. Not saying you would be silly enough to, but have seen it done before. Also worth noting the order you should be torquing them up.
This is a link to the "Overhaul Manual" for the 300TDI http://www.landroverresource.com/doc...aul_Manual.pdf
Go to page 50 (it's actually written as page 28 on the page itself) and follow on from there over the next couple of pages for the information. I have attached a quick pic of the torquing sequence.
Chris
Ah yep, sounds easy enough, thanks.
Regarding the head, it's a good point, as the symptoms of the blown head gasket I had a while back were similar to the ones I'm having now, though not nearly as severe...Thanks for the link too, very useful! I've got a lot to work through this weekend, lucky I booked out 2 days!
I was tinkering around in the engine bay tonight with what little light I had left after work, and found a couple of stray black rubber hose ends about 6mm diameter at the back of the engine - one on the air side, and one on the fuel side. They both look identical to the glowplug wiring sheathe (the one on the front most cylinder that daisy chains its away across the other 3. It was too dark to trace them though... Might need 2 weekends :p
Ok so, I took it to get looked at. On the dyno, full diagnostics.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flexual
Results are:
Blown turbo compressor wheel
Injector pump not advancing
Injectors need replacing
Lift pump faulty
Exhaust collapse ??
I think it's going in the bin
G'day,Quote:
Originally Posted by Flexual
Sorry to read your above statement.
I would strongly suggest spending $250 more on your 300TDI. Get a new turbo cartridge from speedy turbo on eBay and fit it. It's fairly easy to fit.
Knowing what I now know about 300tdi injector's (I just got mine checked at 200k Km and the bosch agent in Darwin informed me that they are good for another 200k km), I doubt your injectors are stuffed.
If the turbo compressor wheel is blown (what does that mean eactly??!?!?!?! [are bits of it in the intercooler or is the seal leaking causing an over-fuelled state and rough idling and starting and high EGT's?]) then the dyno operator should be aware that the injection won't advance without boost anyway.
hmmm lift pump could be faulty.... they are abit dodgy in their fitness for service.
Anyway just some food for thought if I understand your scenario correctly.
Cheers.