Thread: Auto transmission problem

Originally Posted by steelo

Does 9.8L of tranny fluid sound right or not?

Just had a look at my bill , they charged me for 5L ($60) so your 4.5l seem about right.

Thanks Ollie

Will have a good think about whether I tackle the filter change..
In the meantime I might try to change the fluid and see what that will do.

I just went up to the auto parts joint and grabbed 8 litres of Dex 111 and a litre of a lucas additive which claims to work miracles extending auto life and stopping slipping. For $20 I thought might as well give it a go .

Hopefully I can get more oil out than Steelo..no expert but if your oil is black like engine oil that does not sound good mate..

With the changeover, Coops, what is the way to go doing this gradually? Should i get some oil out, fill it up, drive a bit and then drain the lot to semi flush the box?

Any other tips appreciated before I get under the beast and start messing up my driveway.

Chrs

Mark

Forgot to add, I checked the ATF level as advised and it seems to be sitting at the twist on the stick..well above the max line. Must have been like this since the TGB was changed over so I assume this does not real harm. Oil looks red and pretty clean. Is there a chance this high reading indicates the pump is blocked up or buggered, ie not pushing the oil around?

Chrs

Some times changing the fluid...when it hasnt been done for a long time the new fluid dislodges a lot of sediment in the system, this causes blockages in the valve body and shift problems.
Im pretty sure if you change the fluid and the filter and give it a good clean it will be fine.
Sure there are stories about people doing a service and the next day the box fails........was it because of the service or was it just knackered, a coincidence or introduced contamination?
ATF has high detergent properties so its like most oils it cleans as it goes.
I would drop the ATF, refill drive it for a day or 2 then drop the fluid again and do the filter. I open my filter up after I pull it out and take a look at what it has collected)

Obviously the best way to do it, is at a good trans repairer, they can do a proper flush, I think they pull a hose at the cooler and refill the system as the waste oil comes out the hose (engine running).......I wouldnt try this nor advise the novice to do this.

From manual for a P38;
Automatic gearbox
4.6 V8 up to ’99MY .................................................. 11 litres 4.0 V8 (& 4.6 V8 from ’99MY) ................................. 9.7 litres Diesel .................................................. .................... 9.7 litres
Transfer box
From dry .................................................. ................ 2.4 litres Refill .................................................. ...................... 2.0 litres

This is from empty ie new.

I only ever get 5-6 litres out of mine, it depends on how long you leave it draining.
You need Torx tools for the filter.
Its fairly easy as a job, getting the pan filter back on without a twist is usually my main problem, get an OEM one.
Cleanliness is the key with a transmission when you open it up.
Give it a good degrease and wash before you start on it.
Your T Case definitely needs a change as well after 70,000k.

8nm for the Pan gasket and the filter bolts.

Half the fluid gets stuck in the TC and cooler lines etc so 4.5 litres is about all that can be drained out from the sump. Some transmission shops have transfer pumps to get the lot out but a lot of fluid is required when flushing so its not cheap. Some members have disconnected the cooler hoses and drained into a bucket while gravity feeding new fluid into the box via the return cooler hose. There was a post on here somewhere with that method but I've not tried it myself as yet.
My box started slipping at 140k due to excess heat when towing and I tried a fluid change but ended up with a rebuild due to the friction plates worn out. In my case the fluid had a burned smell with fibrous debris which most likely came from the plates.
The filter change on a TDI is easier than on a V8 as you don't need to worry about the exhaust and from memory and only need to drop one side of the cross member. It would be a tricky job to remove the sump when lying underneath though so the job is much easier when the cars up on a ramp.
Cheers
Mark

Thanks for the replies,

I've changed the ATF and taken it for a short drive. Still did the slip when making a right hand turn in 1st. It sure feels like a slipping trans when it happens, but I'm surprised it isn't doing it consistently and the fact it mostly happens when turning right from a standstill has me a bit curious about whether it is something else holding it back.

For now I've got a filter on the way and will change that out when I drain it the second time and see how that goes..

Fingers are crossed, but I have a sinking feeling due to the k's on it. This slipping only started after going up and down the Glaston Gorge road each day for about a month and all the hairpins were working the gears over.

Chrs

Mark

Got me worried as I noticed mine doing this a couple of times - notably in reverse. I was worried I wouldn' be able to reverse up the driveway and would end up rolling down through the (closed) garage door....

If all else fails and you need a professional opinion try giving Joe a call at ATA in Sydney. They did the rebuild on mine and are very knowledgeable with ZF boxe's. Transmissions | Auto Trans Australia
Also ZF themselves are at Arndell park but you will need to remove the box yourself or get someone to remove for you it if you want ZF to rebuild it.
ZF Friedrichshafen AG | ZF in Australia
Cheers
Mark