Thread: Limited choice of oil.

Upgraded, barely. The bottom end and heads are virtually identical to the buick V8 they were cast off.
Regular oil change is more important that the oil used, any half decent mineral oil will do for the RV8.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

Upgraded, barely. The bottom end and heads are virtually identical to the buick V8 they were cast off.

aside from the metals used and the finish of the engine, newer oils provide better protection, not just for new engines, but old ones too.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

Regular oil change is more important that the oil used,

your 110% correct about this.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

any half decent mineral oil will do for the RV8.

why use a base I or II when a base III, which is better, costs only slightly more?

I have to agree with Loanrangie - any brand name 20w50 oil bought from a reputable seller will go well in a Rover V8. I have had three of them over the past 20 years and still put whatever is available in my current 3.5, its gearbox and transfer case - no issues.

It is so easy to get carried away with this oil and that oil for these engines when in reality it is just so easy 20w50 in a reputable oil will be fine.

Garry

I have been using the 20W-60 Penrite oils in a wide range of LRV8s and other common engines for over 25 years, never had a problem with cold start lubriation or cam wear. If you have 10 litres of the diesel oil I wouldn't hesitate in using it. Change it at 7-10K depending on your amount of top gear cruising.

Originally Posted by bee utey

20W-60

why on earth do you want to run something that thick at both start up and at operating temp?

Originally Posted by Eevo

why on earth do you want to run something that thick at both start up and at operating temp?

It's not that thick. I've tried the thinner stuff and don't like the results.

I run it because

25+ years experience without issue. I know by experience my engines will still be relatively unworn at 400,000km plus.

I tend to push my engines hardest at lower RPM, ie 2000 to 3000 max and like plenty of oil pressure at that speed.

Lower drain off and faster build up of oil pressure on start up.

Better oil pressure when driving/towing in 40 degree heat.

I'll put dishwater grade oil in engines specifically designed for it, ie modern and less than 160,000km old. Otherwise it gets the slightly thicker stuff. I generally read viscosity grade recommendations in hand books to get an idea and err on the slightly thicker side if there's considerable age on the machine.

Originally Posted by bee utey

It's not that thick. I've tried the thinner stuff and don't like the results.

I run it because

25+ years experience without issue. I know by experience my engines will still be relatively unworn at 400,000km plus.

I tend to push my engines hardest at lower RPM, ie 2000 to 3000 max and like plenty of oil pressure at that speed.

Lower drain off and faster build up of oil pressure on start up.

Better oil pressure when driving/towing in 40 degree heat.

I'll put dishwater grade oil in engines specifically designed for it, ie modern and less than 160,000km old. Otherwise it gets the slightly thicker stuff. I generally read viscosity grade recommendations in hand books to get an idea and err on the slightly thicker side if there's considerable age on the machine.

weight 60 is between 21.9 - 26.1 cSt
compared to a 40 which is 12.5 - 16.3.
you might as well be running honey.

pressure does not equate to flow.

and im still not sure why people go thicker with older


but if it works for you, thats great.

Originally Posted by Eevo

you might as well be running honey.

I can assure you that there's nothing honey like about this oil when I drain it at operating temp. I feel you don't quite understand the temperature effect on oil viscosity and how mulitigrade oils work. It still thins down quite a lot when hot.