Thread: Coil specs 98 3.9v8

Try hotwiring the ignition (+) terminal straight to the battery or the ignition wires under the dash. You should have the same voltage at the coil as at the battery. Maybe your security system is malfunctioning.

Try another mulitmeter too, el cheapo ones aren't very useful except for comparism with known voltages/resistances.

But probably your ignition module is fried, a Bosch one can be substituted. Thread here:

Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024

Thanks !I was just reading That , so the restance readings of the coil are fine ? I've ordered a new one any way , ok so here's what I have ( I took the coil out to test it)

I also tried putting 12v straight to the coil , and nada

Crook coils are rare, dead modules are 50x more common. Also test the dissy pickup by disconnecting the red and blue wires from the plug near the coil. It should show some thousands of ohms and react to the rotor moving past the pickup by fluctuating the resistance reading.

Thanks for your help bee utey , I've just finished the conversion but still no luck , I now get .8 dropping to .6volts at the coil , i dont have a spider unit so not sure how to see if the alarm is busted . The battery went flat and we changed it a few weeks later and now all this! Also the truck runs LPG the system is an imco I think when I press the button on the side it hisses so gas is there ...

Just did that I get 3.5k and it goes spastic when cranked , jeepers maybe on to a car carrier and off to landrover Darwin ! Unless some one knows a better garage up darwin way!!

Start with a fully charged battery

Make sure your multimeter has a secure negative side earth at the battery negative or the engine block. Your test leads may be broken.

Test the voltage at the battery (+).

Test the voltage at the white wire out of the ignition switch.

Test the voltage at the (+) wire to the coil with it disconnected from the coil.

Test the voltage with the same wire reconnected to the coil.

Check you haven't accicentally earthed the negative side of the coil. A coil should have a very high resistance (ie no connection) to earth when not firing.

Disconnect the noise suppressor to make sure it isn't shorted internally. I have seen a couple short out and melt recently, on a Toyota Camry.

It's no good saying you've got 0.8V at the coil without checking all the rest. It's the voltage lost along the path that counts. Then you start looking for dud connections.

Your dissy pickup sounds like its fine. 3.5K is good.

Ok I get 12 at the battery and at the key but the black + I get 2.6volts and from the white nothing when I connect them back to the coil I get the same .8 that's with the noise suppressor disconnected ....so between the ignition and the coil I'm losing 10 volts ok start looking for a broken wire ?