Have you got the non functioning valve?
Post it down and ile have a sticky beak
Done. Ile strip it down and take some decent pics to post up and if I can get it functioning ile post it back . Hard part is getting the right size seals and orings to fit that are brake fluid compatable and I would near bet my left one thers no kits available but we have boxes full of odd orings and seals just takes hours sometimes to sort throu them all to get the right part this might not help the op but it may just help some one else down the track
Thanks heaps guys,
Im going away for 3 weeks and I was going to try to fix the problem before I leave but now Im going to wait unitll you have had a go then I will work on mine :p
In the RRC at least, there's two circuits on the front brakes and the rears are connected to the primary front. The switch doesn't switch on pressure but on the piston location.
When you loose fluid in the primary circuit (fronts and rears) the pedal drops as the piston has no resistance. I can't remember exactly but I think there's a groove that catches the pin in the switch, turns the light on and stops the piston returning back past the orifice for the primary circuit and allows it to continue to operate the secondary circuit.
It might be a week before I get to it
Basically, unscrew the switch, the piston may click back into it's original position. As said, it won't leak any fluid and it's a 30 sec process to try. Hopefully it's that simple.
Check the rear output of the master cylinder and then higher up on the same circuit to see if the primary front circuit has fluid as well. If that's missing then there's a master cylinder issue. I've never had to "reset" a proportioning valve, ever, on anything.
Going by this diagram the only switch is the fluid level Land Rover Workshop Manuals-300Tdi Discovery-BRAKE SYSTEM NON ABS