Technical Forums, go to "The Good Oil" thread, pays to look for service history, Service records and such, Regards Frank.
Gents....
I know there is plenty of info spread throughout this forum on the various things/problems, etc of what to look for or to be aware of when buying, but I was wondering if there is just one thread where all this INFO is located. Just might save me some LONG HOURS in trying to gather all the relevant info in helping me to eventually purchase a GOOD one.....
Not sure if u could list some helpful info in this post ???
cheers.....
RobM
Technical Forums, go to "The Good Oil" thread, pays to look for service history, Service records and such, Regards Frank.
The short answer is No, there isn't one thread for that. It would be the world's longest thread and none of us has time to write that ....
Ther is however plenty of good infoonthisforum and I'm sure you'll get some feedback in this thread too.
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
By the way where are you in Brisbane? I'd alwys suggest an independent inspection by a LR specialist ! (RACQ inspection isn't worth paper it's printed on as they seem to know nothing about Land Rovers) Whatever the inspction costs it could save you a lot fo money down the track.
Check that the timing belt has been done, or when it's due as that will cost a few $.
Oh, and make sure you actually DRIVE one before buying it....
If you are in North Brisbane PM me and I can probably help with that, and run you through a coupel of things that I;d check / recommend / had to get sorted.
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
Thanks for that.... much appreciated... I am located on the Nthside of Brissie too
I'm hearing from various sources that the running gear on these D1 are fairly weak and if u are into the fairly hard offroading stuff, then u most likely will be breaking axles/CV's, etc.... Is this true as I thought I remember reading on here somewhere that the axles, etc were strengthen on the last of the D1 models >96 to '98 ??
I don't want to worry every time that i take it out that I might break something.
I'll be looking for an TDi Auto too, so the missus can drive it if necessary.....
They arent that bad, i have never broken anything on my tdi auto but like any other vehicle if you abuse it you will break something.
And it the one you drive is really sluggish it must need work , i have rarely wanted for extra power apart from towing a medium size caravan.
Today i ran to work on 265/75/16 muds and there was absolutely no difference to the 245/70's i usually run - if anything it was quicker.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
WOW.... my cousin who had gotten me interested in the D1's was advised to stay with the factory size and not go to 245/75/16 as he would lose the edge and would be disappointed in driving it......
Running 265/75/16 with std gearing I would have thought would definitely effect its response in a big way ??
Good to hear that u never broken anything, as I mainly want for to/from work, then weekend bush exploring trips and tackling those unexpected & sometimes difficult tracks u find when exploring through the bush....
rob
IMHO
mechanically, the first thing to look for is smooth..
does the engine run smoothly, does it idle smoothly, what happens when it is idling and you switch the air conditioning on.. does it slow down and run really roughly or does it slow down and still idle relatively smoothly?
when taking off does the auto change smoothly or does it clunk or jerk
when going from forward to rev and vice versa is it smooth or is there any loud clucks, a loud clunk from the back means look at the suspension rubbers and a frame ball joint
when accelerating is there a lot of harmonic vibration thru the cab or does it smoothly move thru the gears and change into top just under 80 kph
if it is smooth thru that lot, only leaks a little, and the automatic fluid doesn't have any sort of burnt smell to it then the basics are usually good and it is worth looking at further..
when you hit the brakes does it pull up smoothly or is there any shuddering or steering wheel vibration?
when hard accelerating does the vehicle pull to the left or right? if so suspension rubbers need work.
check under the floor mats for rust or rust repair.
check the rear alpine windows for rust under the rubbers and check the load space floor for rust under the mats.
does it drip oil after a run? check the front and rear main seals and the front and rear of the transfer case
check the power steering hoses near the joints to see if they leak... most weep a little
does the steering moan when you go from full lock to full lock, most do a little...
check the central locking functions from the drivers door and lifts all the doors locks fully up
make sure all the door lock levers open the doors and that the windows go up and down using all the switches.
if all seems well at the end of that lot spend the money get a local LR specialist to give it a once over...
2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi
"Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
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“What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
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