Managed to get it started again and drove it up the drive way. It did not want to run at all. Smoke still coming out the oil cap and no water in the over flow. Perhaps cooked it and blown a gasket.
Its a auto.
Auto or manual ?? If a manual, which one ??
Managed to get it started again and drove it up the drive way. It did not want to run at all. Smoke still coming out the oil cap and no water in the over flow. Perhaps cooked it and blown a gasket.
Its a auto.
with that budget, you're limited to the 3.9..
before I start making suggestions....
hows your tooling and skills on the tools?
(if your budget is a total of $1500 you are going to be very hard pressed to pull it off if you dont do a heap of the prep work, $1500 for the motor alone isnt too bad)
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
If you can do the spanner work you should be able to get the short rebuilt and just have your heads checked, ground and new gasket set for your budget.
Would most likely need a new cam/lifters/chain set as well.
Of course this all depends on condition of the block and sleeves.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
I had a sleep on it. Im going to tear the heads off and have a gander. I think im over reacting and its just a blown head gasket, possible warped head. As both water and oil are coming from the areas i think i may be on the money there.
WOrst case is that i tear it down and im wrong and still need another motor.
Is there water in the oil? (loosen the drain and see what come out first).
I'm in the middle of doing HG's on my 4.6. For $100-more than the cost of a new cam here i got;
Cam, new retaining plate and bolts.
Lifters
Timing gears and chain
Pushrods
Steel rockers & posts and shafts
Shim kit for rockers
All gaskets and water pump.
Turner Engineering is great for quality supply, shipping on everything was 70 punds via DHL and it was here in 3 days. It was going to take longer to get the cam to sydney via genuine supply.
The liners should be fine as it shouldn't suffer like the 4.0/4.6. Take your time, get the heads checked professionally and also hardness tested. They can go soft (as can the block) if it gets too hot. For what they charge I don't deal with heads anymore save for seat cutting, that I don't trust to anyone.
I'll be checking it out tomorrow. I ordered a Vrs kit and head bolts. Already have a timing kit and water pump here. Now would be a perfect time to do a cam but I'm worried that after I do the Vrs kit I may discover something else to be damaged. But I'll see how I go.
If you do cam you'll also need to do lifters as well. Cancel the bolts PLEASE buy ARP studs.
I'll give you a 96 3.9 for $400,(If you help get it out!) 250k on it, I drove it home from Nambour to brissie no probs (excluding the ABS shudder under brakes) and was going to use it while I rebuild mine but sounds like you need to do the same a little sooner...
Last edited by dadsDisco1; 2nd February 2014 at 09:36 AM. Reason: Clarification
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