Stipped head bolt thread in block.

ARP | The Official Web Site

With bolts as you torque then down they are twisting and pulling at the same time so there is friction on the block threads as well as tension as the torque increases as the bolt is tightened.

With studs the stud is screwed in to basically just a bit more than finger tight. When the nut is being tightened there is only the pulling tension on the block threads as the twisting motion is on the much stronger stud threads. Simply the motion is easier on the threads of the block.

Clear as mud ;).

Garry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by spudboy

Can someone give me a quick heads up on ARP studs? I looked in Wikipedia - but no info.

Are they special because you put in a stud to the block, and then you tighten a nut on the top of the stud? Why is this better?

Sorry for the dumb question, but if you don't ask, you don't learn......

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Here's some bed time reading! It's not that TTY is necessarily better or worse. One problem appears to be that the consistency of manufacturing quality of after market TTY bolts cannot be guaranteed and that produces problems. Some DIY-ers and professionals have no problem with TTY bolts and their cost is a lot less than studs etc.

I used ARP studs because I wanted some reassurance of consistency and knowing my luck, that if I had to repeat the exercise... I could reuse the studs...

http://www.acl.co.nz/Tech/Torque%20T...0Headbolts.pdf
and
http://www.sbintl.com/tech_library/a...e_to_angle.pdf
When is Tight Tight Enough
and
Methods of Tightening Threaded Fasteners

Quote:

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Originally Posted by garrycol

ARP | The Official Web Site

With bolts as you torque then down they are twisting and pulling at the same time so there is friction on the block threads as well as tension as the torque increases as the bolt is tightened.

With studs the stud is screwed in to basically just a bit more than finger tight. When the nut is being tightened there is only the pulling tension on the block threads as the twisting motion is on the much stronger stud threads. Simply the motion is easier on the threads of the block.

Clear as mud ;).

Garry

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zaccly!:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TriPolar

Sweet. Cheers man. Going to go do some torquing now.

Who wants to get paid to put my motor back together? :D

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sure, why not...

I've done dumber things for cash.....

and on the edit a reply for spud boy.

both the technical type response prevsiously are correct but basically "screw that noise" in laymans terms.

they are better because you dont get problems with thread damage and galling interfering with the torquing process.

Depending on the model you're fitting to, don't loctite the studs in. If it's a D2 for instance you won't get the heads on with the rear studs pre fitted or off without pulling the studs first. Thats the only downside but you can't damage the underside of the head on the studs either with them removed. Just place the head on the dowels and then fit the studs. I just screw in by hand then with a small allen key apply a pinkies worth of pressure to it.

Hoges: When did ARP start recommending 65lb with comp gaskets? In my set the paperwork is listed as 80lb with ARP lube or 85 with oil. Seems like a lot of variation between gasket types and also a lot less than the TTY bolts average tensions @ 20lb/90/90.