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Thread: Fitting 300tdi into v8 disco1, and switching to 5 speed and toyota axles

  1. #1
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    Fitting 300tdi into v8 disco1, and switching to 5 speed and toyota axles

    Hey fellas, as the title suggests, I am converting my us spec 97 disco v8 auto to a 300tdi/r380.

    I am hoping to draw on your collective knowledge of these truck since i know virtually nothing about them, nor do I have access to a 300tdi powered truck to compare to.


    I just finished adding the clutch pedal box, prepping the console area, and have installed the r380/lt230 using the original v8 auto trans/case mounts.

    it fits great, i do not know why the diesel have a different crossmember design when the v8 versions are the same fitment. Are the vibration frequencies that much different between the two setups?

    Since my truck is a LH drive, I need to get a clutch fluid line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder on the trans. I have been searching for this part number, but have come up empty. Do any of you know what that part might be?


    I removed the mainshaft from my 230 when i separated it. when reassembling through 6 bolt cover, it dawned on my that since the bearing race is in the rear cover, adding sealant may compromise the preload on that bearing. should I be concerned here?

    I noticed there is a machined hole for an alignment sleeve between the case and transmission, on the upper end of the pattern. However, on both the units I separated, there was no sleeve installed. Isnt this needed?

    I have a 5 speed us spec parts disco available to me. On this truck, the R380 has an auxiliary transmission cooler to the radiator. Seems odd to tme that a manual trans would want a cooler. Is this worth adding to my UK spec gearbox? It has a blockoff plate where the lines go.

    i am going to test fit the 300 today. My plan is to mate to the trans and measure for engine mounts using the oem trans to locate the whole assembly.

    I would be very appreciative if any of you knows the height the engine sits in the engine bay. so as to keep this as factory looking as possible.
    Last edited by moneypit_k5; 28th April 2014 at 03:54 AM. Reason: added yet more questions

  2. #2
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    Why would you go to the trouble of fitting Toyota axles (I presume you mean the whole axle (diff) housing), they are crap. Instead stick with the Land Rover and fit ARB diff centres and Maxi-Drive axles (shafts) and end drive plates, as strong as you will ever need, a straight edge across the oil filler cap on the top of the rocker (tappet) cover leaves about 1" of clearance on the guards opposite (fenders/wings, whatever you call them over there) good luck, Regards Frank.

  3. #3
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    thanks for the info Frank, ive been fooling with the height and that is where I landed as well.

    perhaps i should have been more specific. Im using toyota fj80 front, LX450 full floater rear. hardly junk by anyones standards.

    It is very strange to me that neither the LT230 to gear box, or gearbox to engine has any alignment pins. it appears the gearbox bellhousing is threaded to accept the pins, but theres no pins.

  4. #4
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    the dowels / pins must be missing,

  5. #5
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    You are fitting a 300TDi, not a real powerful motor the likelihood of breaking ARB diffs and Maxi-Drive axles (and you get Lockers to boot) are near impossible and LR diffs are full floaters.
    I have no Idea what an FJ80 or LX450 are but the only Toyota I ever owned (BJ40) from new when only a month or 2 old lost a pinion drive nut on the rear diff and the pinion shaft slipped down under the crown wheel and totally destroyed the whole rear end. I also had the unpleasant trait that Toyota diffs have of that they don't like going backwards, broke both front and rear diffs (at different times) under warranty while reversing out of a bog, 3 Toyota diffs in the warranty period.
    LR diffs have better suspension setup than Toyota and the front swivel housings can be changed out if damaged by undoing 6 (or so) bolts.
    I have had no problems with my Land Rover ARB diffs and maxi axles for over 10 years now, I have had these same diffs and axles in a 3.5 V8 Disco, a warmed up 4.0 V8 Disco and now in my 300TDi Disco, so they get around and never a problem, Regards Frank.

  6. #6
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    D1/ RRC diffs arent full floaters, as far as i know only the salisbury diffs are. 80 series diffs are a good swap as they give you 4.11 gearing and the rear diff is the right off set for a rover, will also help with the tdi and big tyres.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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  7. #7
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    All rover axles bar S1 are fully floating.

    If you'll break rover diff's with the 300 then you'll do the same to Toyo stuff. Leave them there, fit lockers, ARB, Ashcroft. Lucky 8 in NY will have everything you need in stock incl the dowels for the bell housing to engine and the gearbox (,or at least can order them).

    The toyo diff will be the wrong width, wrong centre offset, different stud pattern, need new suspension mountings and brakes will be worse and need adaption (metrc Togo stuff to imp rover fittings). Very few if any benefits with a large cost and outsourcing of stuff like shortening diffhousing, make/respline new axles to suit.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    D1/ RRC diffs arent full floaters, as far as i know only the salisbury diffs are. 80 series diffs are a good swap as they give you 4.11 gearing and the rear diff is the right off set for a rover, will also help with the tdi and big tyres.
    Yea, they are all full floating

    If you can fab stuff and I'm guessing the tojo stuff is dirt cheap, fit it, don't worry about the naysayers, if its a bush mobile its all good, bigger brakes, better ratio and dollar saving

    If on the other hand you were paying I'd stick with rover stuff and do the usual lockers and axles

    I've seen very, very few damaged swivel housing and I'd suggest if you damage one, you have more things to worry about, the only real joy of bolt on swivels is the ability to slot the holes for castor correction, whereas the jojo stuff you have to cut the weld and rotate the ball

  9. #9
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    Isnt full floating meaning that the axles are not fixed to the hub mount like D1/RRC are ? Front stubs are floating as they are splined and have the circlip to hold them in position.

    Dont mind me, i was thinking of floating V semi floating - carry on
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  10. #10
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    My understanding of full floating is that the axle doesn't take any vehicle weight, the hub takes it all. Like my S1 Disco.

    Dave

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