Printable View
Not sure where but seems to spray oil out. There’s little drops of oil all over fuel filter and steering shaft as if spraying out. That’s my next job. Cleaning it up properly and seeing where from and then possibly replacing rivets. Be nice if I could find right size core plugs. Somebody is bound to manufacture them.
I bought a new V.pump, expecting the worst(having read up on it), but thought it to be a total PITA job to remove/replace just for an oil leak.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fausto79
So the bonus that the sealant worked. Same issue with oil on fuel filter and down driver side of tunnel and onto front prop .. and then everywhere else.
But, also suspect your oil pump thermostat o ring too.
Also, is the oil pressure warning light switch an original type, has it been replaced .. etc.
They also leak out the tip of the apex, where the spade terminal protrudes. (yeah! .. no need to ask me how I know this.
I chased the leaking threads for a while(noting I have an added oil pressure gauge and temp sensors for my gauges, AND I kept the std warning light sensor too.
After a fair bit of mucking about finally getting all the adapters sealed up, the small remaining leak was from the tip of that warning light sensor. Again that Loctite orange sealant liberally applied all over the plastic body, cleaned off the spade terminal.. and now leak free(other than the oil pump thermostat o ring).
Been leaking for quite a while now, but it's a small drop every day kind'a leak .. and can't be faffed doing it ... yet ... Until I do the service.
Leak definitely not from the filter housing/oil cooler lines. All those are fairly new i replaced them all when i did the new head. I have a tpiece there with a vdo sensor and factory light sensor. It drip leked a bit but after this service yesterday i pulled it all off and cleaned and resealed with 567 or 677 which ever number it is. I had a lot leaking from valve cover which hopefully has stopped now as ive put a thin layer of toyota black packing sealer. I’d say almost certainly from v pump. Especially from location of spray and the spray patterns suggest a blunt weapon um i mean pressurised oil being spayed out from pump.
Ah! OK.
One other thing I remember leaked a little on mine were the cyclone hoses.
Trying to remember which one exactly, but I ended up getting silicon hoses for the long one around the back to the inlet, and the one from the valve cover that shoots down.
Couldn't find the bottom cyclone hose(cheaply enough).
But I'm sure the valve cover hose was so hard it just didn't seal, so spewed a little oil too.
Originally I thought it was the fuel pump gasket as that's where it seeped down too, and whilst driving it'd throw it back.
When I removed the valve cover hose it cracked into a few pieces.
Fun and games, huh!? [bigrolf]
Splashed out and finally got myself everything to fix my seat. Exmoor seat foam, exmoor diaphragm and LR lumbar support band. All of which are done for in my seat. First thing that impressed me when I bought the car was how comfortable it was. Now I’m slouched and sitting on concrete. Looking forward to fitting it all. Will do a pictorial once i get the stuff. Looking forward to it.
Vacuum pump still leaking a bit but after i loctited all the senders and plugs and toyota seal packed valve cover, there’s no more oil drops on driveway and all over the bell housing n exhaust etc. wanted to put seal packing on sump cover but ran out of time. Knowing me once off i would have found another three jobs so glad I didn’t do it this time.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
A cautionary note:Quote:
Originally Posted by Fausto79
I did mine just after I got it.
Seat trim in very good cond(in fact all round in excellent condition, but considering it's age and klms, the basically untouched trim on the driver seat impressed me.
But extremely filthy, I took about 3hrs with a steam cleaner to rid myself of the predominantly red staining(dirt, I think) to bring back it's grey colour.
Drivers seat, foam, rubber(and lumbar) all shot.
Got all the bits locally, could be exmoor sourced, as it was a different foam type.
The cautionary note is, that as you begin to remove it all(and relatively easy to remove the seat cloth), just be very cautious with the two longitudinal seat base trim stays.
The seat base has two longitudinal seams that keep the seat trim base nice and tight on the foam.
From the underside, there should be two long plastic bits that are flipped flat, and rest flat against the foam ... and keep the topside trim nice and tight.
These plastic flap things are sown on the underside of the seat base trim along those two seams. They're sewn via two pieces of material.
Being a little old now they can be a little fragile(mine were .. remembering that the seat was in above excellent condition. Mine basically flaked off with near on zero effort. The sewing came undone, or just broke under the nett zero strain!
It's not a major problem, just that the base fabric won't have any tension if they break off.
I had no way to try to sew them back on. Kept for that day when I can work out a way to get them back on.
What appears to be the way to remove the seat base fabric is to undo it all along the edges(fairly easy, some harder to get at bits, but overall easy.
Then the seat base fabric is held onto the foam via these longitudinal plastic flaps, holding the fabric down from the underside of the foam through two slits in the foam).
It may seem that like easy way to remove the base fabric is to just twist the plastic flaps so that they slide through the slits in the foam, but doign this will put tension on them and this is where the bits of fabric and stitching will rip off the plastic flap things.
What I should have done to remove them is to fully compress the topside of the seat trim material at the seams, to remove even the small amount of tension that the collapsed foam created on these tension flaps.
That is, push the foam downwards and then flip the plastic flaps through the slit in the foam to remove the seat trim.
For my lumbar belt, I just stapled the rubber band back together again at the end where it came apart.
If you got the rubber diaphragm, and it has the 4 extra hooks front and rear(2 of each), just remember to drill extra holes in the seat frame at each end.
Idiot me!.. I did the foam first, and as the rubber wasn't torn, I left it(there's the idiot part!!) .. I knew full well that it was going to break, but though easy enough to fit with seat still in car.
Totally forgot about the need for the extra holes front and rear across the frame!
I still ended up doing it(just) lots of cuts and lacerations to hands getting the drill near where they needed to be drilled.
But while you have it all apart, and even if you think it doesn't need the rubber NOW (it may be OK) .. most people will tell 'ya that it'll need it. So do it while you have the access.
thanks for the tips. I plan on doing everything while i have it out. I have all new bits. foam, diaphragm and lumbar belt. It may be a while until i have the time to do it so in the meantime i'm thinking of getting sound proofing sticky mat and cellular foam and replacing all the floor on that side. followed by passenger side another time. I want to make the car a bit quieter and comfortable to drive long distances.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Finally fixed my rear bumper where some guy ran into the back. He ended up giving me cash for the indicators n plastic bumpers. I took opportunity to clean and paint the whole thing. Used bolts for the stepping plate and sprayed in engine enamel i had sitting around. I have that colour showing up in various parts of the car.
