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I was told by my mechanic to degrease the bottom of the gearbox and motor just before you drive it in for a rwc and if it just weeps it will still be clean when you get there. Saves the hassle of arguing with them as to how bad the leak is. Good luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by gusthedog
So it was a nice cool day, thought I'd take Dolores out for a spin to Seymour to get an x-ray on my hand (I stabbed myself with a screwdriver fixing a kids Toy).
Lovely drive there. On the way back I was coming into Merton in the wire rope barrier bit with a car right up my jacksy and a currawong takes off in front of me. I can't swerve because of the wire rope. Can't brake suddenly because of the douche bag up my rear.
And whammo. Takes out the damn headlight, indicator and headlight surround. Which is essentially the whole grille. Am I cursed?
So will need a new headlight or fibreglass/epoxy up the back of it (glass is ok but rear is broken), new indicator and new grille. Jesus bloody Christ! And my first drive in a month because of lockdown!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1039a1f71b.jpg
Nup!Quote:
Originally Posted by gusthedog
otherwise I am too.
Chrissy last year, partner and I were bored, weather was good .. so went for a drive just to kill the day, as she hasn't seen much of Aus nor Vic.
Heading back, somewhere about Elmore/Rochester on that highway some stupid bird decides my headlight was worth headbutting. No lunatics behind etc. just cruising gently at about 90-ish but no chance to swerve, stop or anything.
Didn't think anything of it .. it's a soft spongey bird for christs sake! But yap! .. smashed lens on RHS where it hit.
Anyhow my indicator was OK, and I have a D2 project that's taking a seriously long time to get onto .. so it's headlights were scavenged as the replacement.
Have to say too, I prefer the blacked surrounds of the D2's lights ..
Have been doing some wiring fixes on the old girl. Now have a working mad man EMS 2 with EGT, a working boost gauge, working reverse camera and engine guard.
Broke a bit of the dash chasing some wiring but have a spare section to replace it.
Have also done the rear sway bar bushes. Only 30 or so bushes to go [emoji1787]
Also have to fix that intermediate shaft leak in the transfer case.
Then it should be ready for RWC. Getting there slowly.
Finally got around to fitting the lift kit today easy job Dobinson springs and raw shocks drives a lot better it dose sit a little high in the back but should settle after some use
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Had a few jobs done by my indi yesterday:
Timing belt
New starter
Fit Hybrid turbo
Initial 25km drive home -definitely pulls better mid range and at least as good as earlier at higher revs. Popped up to 130 kph without too much trouble.
Noticed that egt's rise more quickly through mid range but dont go higher than before.
Looking forward to testing and tuning it further...but...
I was advised that the tensioner pulley was noisy. As I had a spare new tensioner I decided to put it on.
While doing that I have stripped (or it was weakened yesterday during timing belt job) the tensioner holding bolt housing.... **** it all.
So car is off the road until I can sort that out - any ideas appreciated.
Also had a look at the viscous fan unit - I am always skeptical that these things work properly. I have it out to work on the tensioner.
cold it has some resistance..... heated with hair dryer the metal coil expands and turns the valve as expected..however this does not increase the turning resistance at all.
Am I missing something. I suspect these units have a significant say in the number of over heating issues or general cooling difficulties with the tdi's.
I will probably replace the unit - any suggestion on which brand is best?
I'm 99.99999% sure the bolt for the tensioner should be a stud and nut.Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
So ideally: if yours is really a bolt and not mistakenly taken as a long bolt but is in fact a stud and nut, is there enough clamping force on the threads in the housing where you could locktite the stud in place.
When you remove the tensioner, and a stud/nut is fitted, the nut is the only part that should come off.
If it's totally stripped out and won't give any tightness at all, I personally wouldn't use loctite on the stud in that situation because you can't ensure a truly straight fitment.
Also given that you mention bolt, but I think it's supposed to be a stud/nut system, if you do find it's a nut and stud and not a bolt, make sure that the long section of thread is in the housing and not on the nut.
HiQuote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Yes its a stud and nut.
The short section was in the housing.
I can t get more than about 10nm on the stud now.
I tnink rather than me **** about with it I will ask my mech to come and do it.
Could be best to get a mech if you don't feel confident, but if you could get about 10Nm on the stud, I'd say a strong locking compound may do the trick.Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
Note that I posted the torque specs for the stud .. only at 14Nm. I'd reckon that as long as the threads in the housing aren't loosey goosey and hence won't hold the stud on the straight and narrow ... that 10 .. or even 7Nm, may be good enough to keep it lined up, also noting that the tensioner and housing mating surface is large enough to hold it up straight so belt won't run out of alignment.
Idea.. maybe that would at least allow me to get the car back to mech. I wouldnt like to rely on that fix as a long term fix as car is used for remote trips.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Otherwise, i just spoke with mech, and he suggests I pull the housing off and get it to him to do the helicoil properly. Thanks for your ideas.
Pic of stud:
Attachment 173366
Ps..would you mind checking on your car what end of the stud the nut is on ( from what I can deduce on youtube, the short thread goes into the housing see 7 min mark of 300tdi Aux. drive belt adjuster replace - The Fine Art of Land Rover Maintenance - - YouTube ) And what thread-locker would you use - permatex red?
