I still have the Disco. And a BMW GS Adventure, an oldie but a goodie :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by DAMINK
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I still have the Disco. And a BMW GS Adventure, an oldie but a goodie :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by DAMINK
Changed the oil in the front diff which i cant remember doing before :angel:,
checked grease in swivels as i was getting a jingling noise in the front.
Put 150ml of gear oil in there and now its pretty quiet so should get my by til i can tear them down and re-do the lot.
You'll probably spend more on he Bavarian Money Waster than you did on the Disco :wasntme:Quote:
Originally Posted by WillsTdi
I put the other Disco 1 in the Marketplace today, and the Freelander1 as well. SWMBO cracked it when I started talking about a Deefer/Series Ute - said I had too many vehicles now, and have to get rid of at least 3 cars and 2 bikes before I can even think of bringing anything else home :(
Well thought my ac clutch died.
Biggest noise I have heard. . Doing 90kmh
But had a look today Attachment 102777
Easy fix..
Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app
No Doubt this has already been written about :-)
But here goes anyway. LOL :-)
1993 Land Rover Discovery comes home with us to join our 1982 Range Rover.
Second day of Ownership No Start / No Spark :-(
God Bless The WWW and all those Great Minds out there who take the time to share their Skills And Time with us Learners.
Okay to start the testing pull any spark plug lead of the engine and stick a screw driver carefully in the end of the lead. Use the right size screwdriver LOL.
Place the screw driver against a good earth, turn over engine and look for a blue spark between the earth point and the screwdriver. No spark replace the lead back on its appropriate spark plug.
Find your coil and follow the centre HT lead in the distributor cap.
Remove the lead from the top of the distributor and do the same screwdriver to Earth test, turning over the engine and looking for a spark.
No spark still, remove wiring clip from Ignition Module, On my Disco this is located on the Distributor Body, test that it is getting 12 volts with ignition on. Yay power is going into the Ignition Module. :-)
2nd Re-connect the wiring plug to the Ignition module.
3rd use a test light and connect the ground to the engine, connect the other end to the - negative side of the coil. have someone turn over the engine with the key as if starting the car.
Watch the test light, if the light blinks during startup procedure then we know the ignition Module is working and triggering the coil. :-)
If however the light tester does not blink you have a faulty Ignition Module. :-( Bummer approx cost of new Bearmach part number (STC1184 <B> :-) $55:00.
if the test light did blink then with the ignition still turned on, place the light tester which should still be earthed to the engine, onto the + positive side of the coil, if the light lights up your ignition switch is good and power is flowing as it should to the coil. Yay :-)
If however there is no power at the + positive side of the coil, there is a break in the circuit leading from your car battery through your ignition switch. If this happens run a red positive wire direct from the battery to the + positive side of your coil and start the car. if it starts you need to find and fix the problem with the ignition feed, Check all Fuses first and make sure the battery is fully charged.
I found my coil has died as the following test with a multi meter set to ohms 20 K placing one probe in the center HT hole and the - negative terminal I had a reading of 07:47 when it should have shown a number approximately 11.5 to 13.50.
I then used the multi meter still set to oms 20K to test the positive + terminal and the negative - terminal and should have got a reading of 1.5 or so but got 000 no reading = One Dead Coil.
Pics to be included, of Coil, Ignition Module on its own, ignition module on Distributor body, and finally distributor cap.
Hope this post saves someone else.
I also removed a 2 inch lift from the Disco and put it in our 1982 Range Rover and put the coils and shockies out of the Range Rover back into the Disco, long job but very pleased.:wasntme:
Fitted an allegedly waterproof Anderson plug from my aux battery to my rear bumper to get power to my little Cub Campomatic:Dhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/12/611.jpg
Pulled the front hubs/swivels to fix an oil leak, only to find the seals I have are wrong :angry:.
So it sits on stands now till I can get hold of the right parts.
A few days ago actually -replaced a couple of globes in the tail & number plate lights. Biggest hassel was the fact that the spring clip thingys that the screws for one of the number plate lights had completely rusted away so had to make up a plate from a piece of gal iron and then get the one piece plate into position through the barely adequate hole. :mad: Worked a treat though and will probably last longer than the original.
Put the front hubs/swivels back together. I had the wheel bearings running in oil, but went back to grease and home brew semi fluid grease in the swivels. Also replace the very bent steering rods with some from my parts car. Even washed it!
:confused: Why did you revert to greased bearings?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick1970
