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I put 4 inch pioneer speakers at front which came with my head unit. Similar to this kenwood one spel1 has.Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
At the back i made some steel brace attached to a wood spacer which allowed me to fit 6 inch speakers.
Sounds way better than original. Room for improvement though. One day I would like to get one of those amp/subwoofer mix, low profile things and add a bit more oomph.
I made a thread about the speakers few years ago. I'll see if I can find it
Thanks Tom.Quote:
Originally Posted by BathurstTom
It was both of them!
swapped out the old radiator for a new one just before xmas along with a full set of hoses (thanks Heather and Mario). No cooling issues sofar towing the van :)
Like Jeremy Clarkson would say ... powwwerrrrr!
U can never have too many USB ports(when you have kids)!!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im.../2016/12/6.jpg
Plugs are:
1amp USB + volt meter
DC power plug
USB, 1amp + 2.1amp
All three ports feel cheapo, so I don't expect they'll last too long, but I'll deal with that if (when!) the time comes.
Next project is to work out a neat/simple way to convert the Discos dash three switch block to a Carlin type switch block.
I have the required 3x Carlin switch block, and it won't be too hard to do.
I just don't have the right tools to hack the old disco switchblock neatly enough.
I'll attack it with my dremel and see how that goes first.
Update:
Forced myself to get unlazy, and sort the 3x Carlin type switch block.
Had to hack the discos 3x switchblock to tiny bits, and then I miscalculated the height required for the Carlin switch panel.
Had to then hack the drink tray assembly and cut an inch or so out of that too, and finally it fit.
(Lower right hand corner of photo)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/Update:Fo...flush mounted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...17/01/1112.jpg
Now any new or replacement switch is just a cheapy Carlin type switch off fleabay, rather than looking to hack something up to fit the old rover type switches.
It's not the neatest fit, and I could have done better .. maybe one day I'll get a 3D printer and do something better .. more flush mounted.
After exhausting my supply of straight OEM track rods, fitted a Terraferma 30mm track rod and drag link with new rod ends. Lot easier to keep it driving in a straight line now.
Made some mounting legs for a half rack that has been taking up space in the shed , mounted my light bar to the front of the rack.
Just need to clean it up and throw some paint on it.
Attachment 118883
finally caved in and got under the car to replace the steering damper.
I had a nagging doubt that the old one was a bit dodgy, but on pulling it out it felt fine.
Rubbers were very hard and compressed, so that could have been the cause of the occasional wobble through some 80+ k/h bends with road joins.
Strange thing tho .. new damper felt a little stiffer to compress and expand than the old one, yet the new one has lightened the steering considerably!
About half the effort needed now to turn wheel, and while stationary is easily a one handed job, where before it definitely required both hands.
Still some very mild kick at the wheel when hitting a bump mid bend at 80+, but at least no more little micro wobbles.(so far).
Have you had a look at the front shock absorber rubbers? That is often a cause of the wobble after a bump.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
They're going to be next.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spel1
But, to answer the question .. yes! They still have some softness to them and I (tried to) tightened up both nuts(cheap and easy to do).
Shocks look relatively new too. Maybe a couple of years old or something like that.
I'm going to change them to poly types one day .. as long as I can remember not to forget! :p
Changed them on my RRC all those years back and never looked back.
