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Thread: Rotaflex coupling & rear prop shaft angle, a question for those in the know

  1. #1
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    Rotaflex coupling & rear prop shaft angle, a question for those in the know

    1997 Disco 300tdi - 2? lift - king springs and Bilsteins

    I have destroyed two rotaflex couplings in less than 16 months, the last coming out of Brindabella towing a camper trailer. (admittedly that one wasnt a GKN). So I started researching the fix and it sounds like a 4 bolt flange and a 200 tdi shaft will do the business (which is on the to do list). However, there is still a substantial increase in prop shaft angle due to the lift and this angle is distorting my coupling. So I have a set of RRC lower link arms which I modified (see the attached pic). I have a lathe and machined the threaded end of the link an extra 5 mm, which means the shaft is 5 mm shorter when attached. This pull the diff around on its access and aligns the diff spigot better with the prop shaft with the end result that now there is no distortion in my coupling.

    My question is simply are there any potential issues from doing this?

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/gl...prop-shaft.jpg

  2. #2
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    The idea is sound and works pretty much the same principle as correction bushes in the front, i am only on my second roto and i have a 3" lift but i do have the uni shaft and conversion ready to go in which hopefully i can do this weekend.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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    1974 VW Kombi bus
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  3. #3
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    From memory the flange should be perpendicular to the line of the shaft, the same as for a double cardan front and as opposed to a uni/uni shaft where the flanges are parallel. So see whats std and the replicate with your adjustments.

    A RRC shaft will also fit as will the flange.

  4. #4
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    Minor note for the trailing arm. You may have them already, but for lifted vehicles you can get trailing arm chassis bushes where the plate of steel sandwiched between the rubber is cast at an offset. This allows a more relaxed position for the trailing arm.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    Minor note for the trailing arm. You may have them already, but for lifted vehicles you can get trailing arm chassis bushes where the plate of steel sandwiched between the rubber is cast at an offset. This allows a more relaxed position for the trailing arm.
    Or cranked arms but this would ideally mean longer arms as well.

    Club , I dont think 5mm shaved off will make any substantial difference to the pinion angle.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    Minor note for the trailing arm. You may have them already, but for lifted vehicles you can get trailing arm chassis bushes where the plate of steel sandwiched between the rubber is cast at an offset. This allows a more relaxed position for the trailing arm.
    Thanks but I just purchased Superpro bushes, so I won't be getting offsets for a while.

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