Thread: Intermittent reluctant start. 3.9V8

I lost patience trying to find a D1 wiring diagram.

The earlier RV8s all had a bypass wire which fed 12 volts to the coil while the starter was cranking. This connected to the terminal from the ign key to the starter at the starter solonoid by a blade connector.

It is not unusual for this connector to fall off over time.

So have a look on top of the starter solenoid and see if there is a loose wire there as when the wire falls off there is no feed to the coil while the starter is turning .
Hope it's that simple.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I lost patience trying to find a D1 wiring diagram.

The earlier RV8s all had a bypass wire which fed 12 volts to the coil while the starter was cranking. This connected to the terminal from the ign key to the starter at the starter solonoid by a blade connector.

It is not unusual for this connector to fall off over time.

So have a look on top of the starter solenoid and see if there is a loose wire there as when the wire falls off there is no feed to the coil while the starter is turning .
Hope it's that simple.
Regards Philip A

I'm afraid that only applies to points distributor models that run a ballast type coil. All the electronic ignition models just run straight ignition feed.

On that basis I'd be checking that the ignition switch isn't faulty. A test light wired to the coil positive would indicate a major loss of volts during cranking. The other thing to do is to energise the starter motor with a temporary separate starter button while the key is left in the ignition position.

First turn of the ign key can result in endless cranking with no start.

It could also be the injectors are drooling so much that it floods. Maybe try flooring the accelerator (ONCE ONLY NO PUMPING) as this turns off the injectors for flood clearing.
You don't have gas on this car do you as I have seen a set of Lucas injectors completely seized from someone not knowing to run it on petrol regularly. In fact I sold him a good set of Lucas Injectors. LOL
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

It could also be the injectors are drooling so much that it floods. Maybe try flooring the accelerator (ONCE ONLY NO PUMPING) as this turns off the injectors for flood clearing.
You don't have gas on this car do you as I have seen a set of Lucas injectors completely seized from someone not knowing to run it on petrol regularly. In fact I sold him a good set of Lucas Injectors. LOL
Regards Philip A

I have a similar problem when trying to start the car. I have a 3.5 motor and if I push the pedal to the floor, as you describe, the engine will start to fire. It runs a bit rough and as I am driving it "pops" a bit as it it is "missing" but then after 10 minutes driving the engine smooths out and runs really well.
Maybe it is a problem with the injectors as you mention.
I have changed the leads and coil and it seemed to help a little bit.
What is a further check of the injectors?
Or do they need to be replaced?

Thanks

I have a 3.5 motor and if I push the pedal to the floor, as you describe, the engine will start to fire.

What is teh 3.5 in RRC or Disco?
If RRC it is different to the 14CUX in a 3.9 and has a mechanical cold start function through what is called a "Thermo time switch" and an auxiliary injector in the side of the Plenum. It could be the auxiliary injector is drooling or a problem with the thermo time switch.
Look I am not really educated on the early 1CU systems so your best bet is to find someone who is. But it sounds like the thermo time switch as it sounds lean when cold. .
Regards Philip A