You'll have to check the inner face (where the seal goes) before you worry about the outer casing surfaces
could someone please comment on the third picture i posted with the gouges on themating face of the case and whether this is a problem? will it affect anything or does it not matter so much? can they be sanded back if not flush with the face?
thanks in advance
You'll have to check the inner face (where the seal goes) before you worry about the outer casing surfaces
got the box out on the weekend finally. very sorry state in the bell housing. the clutch plate had literally no meat left on it and broken springs and the smell was hurrendous. thought i had pics of it but not. i will post a pic when i get home of it.
rear main leak. as i already knew. got new one to replace tonight. thought i would post pics FYI.
the flywheel looks in fairly bad shape. or so i think. what do you guys recon? im taking it to a machinist at lunchtime today to get an opinion of whether it can be made nice or those little cracks are terminal.
big job. expensive too if i need new flywheel. but saved myself 4k as i was quoted by a well known LR guy here. possibly more if the flywheel is stuffed.
There are two way to look at this;
the flywheel was still doing it's job and could go for a bit longer.
The other, it's definitely not brand new and there is a risk of that flywheel breaking up with leg shattering results.
At the least I would be finding a good secondhand flywheel to use while the job is apart and you would have peace of mind from doing that.
.
i took flywheel to get machined at brake and clutch place. they said it's normal to have cracks like that on the surface. it is caused by heat from the the clutch plate. they said you only need to worry when the cracks are on the other side of flywheel or if they are going along the cirumference of the wheel and not inside to out.
got it machined and they said its prefectly fine and now looks brand new. $70
Seeing as i had the T case out i and an ems2 to install with various gauges i thought i would buy this.
cost me $160 delivered. i know might be cheaper ones out there but i like the design of this one and the fact there is already a hole tapped for the VDO sender to go into.
once its all in ill post more pics.
Fitted.
sorry to keep this alive. need some more opinions if you still have patience with me.
the photos are attached. first one with the output side of gearbox. the red square shows some gouges out of the output shaft. one of them is quite deep dont think can be sanded down without taking too much off. was wondering. is what ive circled in yellow a collar which goes on the shaft? the whole part right up to where the scratches are? if that is the case, is it removable and replaceable whilst still on the gearbox or does the whole shaft need to come out?
the photo is the other end of the gearbox. thats the new seal ive put in but i noticed there is a cleaner bit on the shaft where possibly something was rubbing on that part previously (old seal). ive marked it in the green box. is the lip of the seal not sitting in the right spot in your opinion or is that ok'the seal is sitting as far in the housing as it can go and ive put the housing on carefully and torqued it up right.
ive been trying to take pics of b4 and after and noticing everything i take apart but then little things like that make me paranoid and are hard to predict before hand.
thanks for any help. ive tried to find pics of of seals in situ but couldnt find one clear enough.
reading page 4 of the r380 overhaul manual i think the collar im referring to is called the oil selector collar, is this correct?
Hi,
sorry to bring back this post.
Was just putting back all the linkages for the transfer case and was wondering if the oring pictured needs to be further in or if it even lives there. As you can see from other pics that ring clamp that fits onto the splines doesn't sit flush against the housing. From pics i took before it seems its not flush either but doesn't seem as if it sits out so much.
Thanks in advance.
Val
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