Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 69

Thread: D1 First Build - Melbourne

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    92
    Total Downloaded
    0
    [FONT=""][COLOR=""][SIZE=""]I just noticed thant Masters has the aerosol can of Penetrol on special for $13.30. It's usually $17 +. I'm in NSW though, I'm not sure if their sales are nation wide.[/SIZE][/COLOR][/FONT]

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Kingsley, Perth
    Posts
    1,045
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If you look at some of my early threads on here, there is one about painting roof and removing rust from alpine windows and around windscreen frame. Also has part numbers for seals etc.

    There is also a thread about fixing the interior. Fyi the centre tunnel console is no longer made. There are a few auto ones around new. There are apparently a few manual ones unused but are about 250GBP. I bought one from germany which was supposed to be manual but when it got here was auto. I will be cutting my old one up and modifying the new auto one to fit mine. You can also try wreckers or gumtree. There are sometimes good second hand ones around.

    I'd recommend pulling alpine windows out and windscreen and as mentioned above remove rust and paint in one of the rust converter products. Then, prime and paint. If rust is bad under alpine seals or windscreen you may need to cut sections away and reweld bits in.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Kingsley, Perth
    Posts
    1,045
    Total Downloaded
    0

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Ballarat, VIC
    Posts
    25
    Total Downloaded
    0
    So much good advice! This is exactly why I joined AULRO, thanks everyone!

    Regarding the seats, they're actually in really good shape, there's no sagging, the diaphragms are good, in that photo there's a foam back support, the covers aren't ripped, and on the far bucket there's a crease in the fabric, the PO had wool seat covers on and the seat cover must have been caught in a fold, the fluff is just from the covers.

    It's funny, but in the UK a Disco with this little rust would have been considered a score! Ha! Aside from the perpetual rain there, the roads are gritted and salted every Winter to pre-empt any ice, wreaks havoc on chassis, especially British vehicles, ironically...

    I think the windows are all pretty water-tight, but I'll have to really dig in to see if I need a new set of seals, bit of a luxury purchase if there's no water getting in right now. Which leaves the heater matrix as the most likely suspect for the soggy floor. The dash can come out as far as I'm concerned, definitely want to nip a problem like that in the bud, shouldn't be too hard to find second hand interiors, I've been speaking to a guy who's got a Disco-centric breakers in Seaford, I can see myself visiting him quite a lot in the coming months.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Tatura, Vic
    Posts
    6,064
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I've dealt with the guy in Seaford. From memory his name is Steve. His prices are good.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    VIC
    Posts
    3,536
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You'll get there no problems. I set myself a challenge to find and buy a D1, then get it on the road for less than $1k. Found this "interesting" candidate. 1995 V8 with 147,000 on the clock. I think I got very lucky as all it has needed was a new fuel pump and it's been an excellent car since.




  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,051
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by B92 8NW View Post
    You'll get there no problems. I set myself a challenge to find and buy a D1, then get it on the road for less than $1k. Found this "interesting" candidate. 1995 V8 with 147,000 on the clock. I think I got very lucky as all it has needed was a new fuel pump and it's been an excellent car since.



    Whose Kenworth is missing a bullbar Joel.

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    92
    Total Downloaded
    0
    [FONT=""][COLOR=""][SIZE=""]Regarding the rust in you Disco, don't use rust converter on seems , folds or anywhere you aren't able to wipe clean to neutralize the acid in the rust converter or more rust will occur. The reason I suggested Penetrol was because it penetrates the rust seals it and makes paint stick and as it is not acid based it doesn't promote rust. I have an unopened bottle of rust converter in the shed that I bought years ago because of the appealing name. "Rust converter"... sounds great doesn't it ? Who wouldn't want a
    bottle of that ? The thing is, The only place I would feel safe using it are in accessible places where I can remove the rust by wire brush or sandpaper anyway ! How is it going ? How's the rust in the footwells ? I understand your reasoning for taking the job on.
    Good on ya for having a go. As long as the rust isn't structural it makes good sense. Check the firewall for rust though. That could be a problem if it's bad.[/SIZE][/COLOR][/FONT]

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    92
    Total Downloaded
    0
    [FONT=""][COLOR=""][SIZE=""]Hi there Lonerangie. This probably isn't the right forum for this question, but I noticed you sent a message on a GT -19300. Is that a Samsung mobile phone ? I have a Samsung GT-S5038 and wanted to get the aulro app for it. Are they still available ? If so wich one is best ? As you probably gathered, I not very tech savvy and would appreciate some advice. Thanks .[/SIZE][/COLOR][/FONT]

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Ballarat, VIC
    Posts
    25
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Sorry for the lack of updates, but there really isn't too much progress to report, aside from further removal of the interior and a $91 parking ticket for having the car face the wrong way. stupid rule...

    I don't have any off-road space to work on it so I'm doing it all in the street which I assumed would be problematic, but in fact has been a great way to meet all of our neighbours! It's amazing how many people want to stop and chat when they see you dicking about with a car. I've had numerous offers of help, tools and specialists that they know of too, helps restore your faith in humanity

    So after tearing out pretty much all of the interior, I enlisted a sparky mate to help out with the electrical side of things, now's the best time to lay down the foundation for all the electrical additions that I've got in mind, this will include power to the rear of the vehicle for a fridge, extra lighting, a compressor and power sockets. First up was to try and get an idea of the current state of the electrics, no pun intended, and luckily the extent of the problems reach only as far as the rear windows and a dead radio. We tested it down to the window controller ECU but even after re-wetting the solder around the main relay there was still no life. Reconditioned boards fetch a ludicrous amount of money so that's out of the question. My Dad's an electrical engineer and has sourced a replacement for that relay on my behalf, the data sheet is identical but is made from different materials to the original Siemens component. If this new part solves the problem it may be the answer many have been looking for, I'll report back once I get it installed.

    V23076-A3001-D142 Datasheet | DatasheetLib.com

    I also removed the headliner and scrubbed it up as that needs relining, the rust in the footwells is not as bad as it first looked, I got a grinder in with a wire wheel and removed the loose stuff. There are some sections that will need new metal, but for the most part some rust killer and paint will be more than sufficient. Just got to get my hands on a welder once my financial situation improves and I can really make some inroads. I'll be chucking in an A-Pillar replacement from YRM Metals and a set of door seals in with the relay my dad's ordering to make a UK to Aus order more worthwhile.

    Hoping to look at the alpine windows this weekend, got a three-dayer in Melbourne so I want to tick a few things off the list, you can see in one of the photos the left hand alpine has been letting water in.



















    My housemates aren't being overly receptive to my 'Solihull Chic' argument for our living room. I'll give them time to come round.

    I didn't want to remove the dash as it just seems like a lot of effort when the heater core replacement can be done without, so I cut up the rubber mats under the carpets. I've done it in a way that means they can be replaced and cable tied back together if needed, but I'd rather get something that doesn't retain moisture like the original ones do. Does anyone have any tips or advice on this?

Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!