D1 First Build - Melbourne

I'm now four months into life with Disco and I'm getting the full experience.

- Driver's side window regulator now works 100% when winding down and 15% of the time going back up. Has made for some very panicky door dismantling with rain clouds approaching, will get a replacement unit from a wreckers and replace the plastic rollers with brass ones.

- Cabin fan stopped working fully, it was intermittent for a week or so then stopped fully which makes me think it's an issue with a connection rather than a dead unit, just haven't had the time or motivation to get into that yet in case I have to start pulling the dash out.

- Was getting a whine when revving >2500 under load, thought it could be the turbo but the cartridge has zero play and all fins look perfect. Went over all the rubber hoses looking for a split but couldn't find anything. Bought a silicon hose kit anyway and it's fully fixed the issue, has a little bit more pull now, noticeable when you can hold a gear up hill that you couldn't previously.

- Alternator bearing went and sounded awful. Luckily I had a spare unit from the parts car sitting in the garage. Swapped them out and it worked for three days before dying. The replacement doesn't charge at all now and I get nothing on the tacho. New unit ordered and on the way. Hopefully between the two old ones I can make a working spare if they're not completely cooked.

- Went for a long trip (with spare battery and trickle charger) down to Port Fairy in March. Whilst we were down there the rubber coupling on the rear prop let go and we had to drive back 200kms with a grinding drivetrain. The bolts on both the prop flange and the diff flange were now chewing each other up which left a much bigger repair bill than it should have been. Upgraded it over the weekend with the uni joint conversion and new prop shaft. The locating pin in the diff flange was an utter pig to get out so had to bring out the grinder to get it done.

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Just found this thread. Well done!

You asked about tracks around Ballarat. As Nick said, WW is coming up. Bring it along.

Winter Wombat 2021

I've just been through that WW thread, I've marked it in my calendar so we'll be there [biggrin]

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Originally Posted by Cinqmars2

I've just been through that WW thread, I've marked it in my calendar so we'll be there [biggrin]

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:beer:

Rug up! It's a good weekend.

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Originally Posted by Cinqmars2

....

- Alternator bearing went and sounded awful. Luckily I had a spare unit from the parts car sitting in the garage. Swapped them out and it worked for three days before dying. The replacement doesn't charge at all now and I get nothing on the tacho. New unit ordered and on the way. Hopefully between the two old ones I can make a working spare if they're not completely cooked.

- Went for a long trip (with spare battery and trickle charger) down to Port Fairy in March. Whilst we were down there the rubber coupling on the rear prop let go and we had to drive back 200kms with a grinding drivetrain. The bolts on both the prop flange and the diff flange were now chewing each other up which left a much bigger repair bill than it should have been. Upgraded it over the weekend with the uni joint conversion and new prop shaft. The locating pin in the diff flange was an utter pig to get out so had to bring out the grinder to get it done.

....

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LOL! seems to be the season for it .. or they(300tdi D1's!!) all have some kind of temporal connectivity to each other and go out in unison!

I did my rear donut a few weeks ago. Stayed with the donut tho .. I like the ability to repair in the field with regular tools. It's one of those items that should be regularly checked whilst servicing(if doing services yourself).
I'd assume a knowledgable LR mechanic would know to do this, eg. whilst draining the oil!
I caught mine with cracks in the donut. ie. I had a little while before it would self destruct. I also have an aftermarket spare(and a very good used one spare. Spare is easy to carry in the car. I gave one to the bro for his D2.

So whilst doing the service I noticed the cracks in the 100K klms one in mine. Pulled shaft, fitted the cheap aftermarket spare I had(to be sure), but next day went about getting the parts to fit a new one(thus returnign the cheap spare back to the spare bin in the back [wink11]
Locating pin in the flange is easy, but you need the tools for it, or the ability to make some 'tools'. I've had a bearing/bush removal/refitting kit for years .. basically a series of cups that allow stuff to be pulled/pushed into the cups void. So one bush tool cup and a bolt(M8 I think) into the locating pin .. and use the rattle gun, it's out in about 2 secs!
The bush in the tailshaft where the pin locates ... now that's a pig to remove. 5-10mins with a cold chisel.

Having read about NVH issues in going to a uni on the rear, I never considered it as an option when I did my donut.

Alternator. same here again. And again just a few weeks ago. But I'm 99.99% sure my alt bearing was a failure of my own stupidity(ineptness). I did the front main seal, and 'had to do' the timing belt at the same time. Seal because it was leaking to much, blet because I don't like to do jobs twice. My belt was at 70K, planned to change at 100K ks, but seal interrupted this plan. No worries, easy to do had to be done soon anyhow .. no problem.

Timing belt done, new stuff replaced where needed, including woodruff key. Woodruff key not installed correctly and slid around it's curve as harmonic balancer was fitted. My ineptness came from not confirming fitment of HB by pulling it back out and back on again(as I did second time around). So the key was crushed behind HB .. not locating it! .. about 1000Ks later, I can hear a supercharger sound .. literally sounds just like a blower .. oooh almost nice, but not good.
Tracked it down to alternator area. removed belt engine idling confirmed that it's not the engine, but something running off the main serpetine belt. either a bearing(all sounded good-ish) or waterpump, or power steer pump.
I have an unrebuilt alternator spare too(will rebuild one day) .. fitted that, blower now missing. So regulator came of bad bearing alternator, old spare alt with the working reg from the 'blower' alternator now on .. all good.

Bearing failed due to HB nearly coming off and wobbling around due to my previous ineptness tho. I have a feeling that the power steer pump has also been affected by the HB too. having occasional issues there too.

So now! ...
I'm going to pull my door trim off and give the window mechanism a good stare down, and warn it very sternly ... thou shalt not fail under my watch .. lest it end up at the scrap metal pile I work with! :bat:
Fan blower! .. PITA to get too? I thought fan blower was down at the passengers feet, just above them. Not easy access, but not a dash removal nightmare either. I have to check it out.
I know D2 fan is a back breaking easy job. Done many times.
But I'm sure blower motor is easy access. So remove blower connect it to some 12v power via some hacked jumper wires.
Could be a simple issue of (say) some jammed flora in the fan drum, or rusted shaft(on motor) etc. etc.
Could also be the actual fan switch(to control fan speed), or resistor unit.
If you reckon intermittent issue, I'd reckon(guess only!) the resistor at fault.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AK83

LOL! seems to be the season for it .. or they(300tdi D1's!!) all have some kind of temporal connectivity to each other and go out in unison!

I did my rear donut a few weeks ago. Stayed with the donut tho .. I like the ability to repair in the field with regular tools. It's one of those items that should be regularly checked whilst servicing(if doing services yourself).
I'd assume a knowledgable LR mechanic would know to do this, eg. whilst draining the oil!
I caught mine with cracks in the donut. ie. I had a little while before it would self destruct. I also have an aftermarket spare(and a very good used one spare. Spare is easy to carry in the car. I gave one to the bro for his D2.

So whilst doing the service I noticed the cracks in the 100K klms one in mine. Pulled shaft, fitted the cheap aftermarket spare I had(to be sure), but next day went about getting the parts to fit a new one(thus returnign the cheap spare back to the spare bin in the back [wink11]
Locating pin in the flange is easy, but you need the tools for it, or the ability to make some 'tools'. I've had a bearing/bush removal/refitting kit for years .. basically a series of cups that allow stuff to be pulled/pushed into the cups void. So one bush tool cup and a bolt(M8 I think) into the locating pin .. and use the rattle gun, it's out in about 2 secs!
The bush in the tailshaft where the pin locates ... now that's a pig to remove. 5-10mins with a cold chisel.

Having read about NVH issues in going to a uni on the rear, I never considered it as an option when I did my donut.

Alternator. same here again. And again just a few weeks ago. But I'm 99.99% sure my alt bearing was a failure of my own stupidity(ineptness). I did the front main seal, and 'had to do' the timing belt at the same time. Seal because it was leaking to much, blet because I don't like to do jobs twice. My belt was at 70K, planned to change at 100K ks, but seal interrupted this plan. No worries, easy to do had to be done soon anyhow .. no problem.

Timing belt done, new stuff replaced where needed, including woodruff key. Woodruff key not installed correctly and slid around it's curve as harmonic balancer was fitted. My ineptness came from not confirming fitment of HB by pulling it back out and back on again(as I did second time around). So the key was crushed behind HB .. not locating it! .. about 1000Ks later, I can hear a supercharger sound .. literally sounds just like a blower .. oooh almost nice, but not good.
Tracked it down to alternator area. removed belt engine idling confirmed that it's not the engine, but something running off the main serpetine belt. either a bearing(all sounded good-ish) or waterpump, or power steer pump.
I have an unrebuilt alternator spare too(will rebuild one day) .. fitted that, blower now missing. So regulator came of bad bearing alternator, old spare alt with the working reg from the 'blower' alternator now on .. all good.

Bearing failed due to HB nearly coming off and wobbling around due to my previous ineptness tho. I have a feeling that the power steer pump has also been affected by the HB too. having occasional issues there too.

So now! ...
I'm going to pull my door trim off and give the window mechanism a good stare down, and warn it very sternly ... thou shalt not fail under my watch .. lest it end up at the scrap metal pile I work with! :bat:
Fan blower! .. PITA to get too? I thought fan blower was down at the passengers feet, just above them. Not easy access, but not a dash removal nightmare either. I have to check it out.
I know D2 fan is a back breaking easy job. Done many times.
But I'm sure blower motor is easy access. So remove blower connect it to some 12v power via some hacked jumper wires.
Could be a simple issue of (say) some jammed flora in the fan drum, or rusted shaft(on motor) etc. etc.
Could also be the actual fan switch(to control fan speed), or resistor unit.
If you reckon intermittent issue, I'd reckon(guess only!) the resistor at fault.

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Yeah if it's the fan unit itself it's an easy job, like you say it's just above the passenger footwell, but if it's the switch/resistor then I'm going to have to start pulling all that cheap, brittle, unobtanium plastic from the dash out to take a look. I'm going to have to be in a really good mood before I take that on.

To be honest I did want to stick with the rubber coupling for precisely the reason you say, ease of repair in the bush. But because the bolts had chewed through both the prop flange and the diff flange I'd be looking at replacing more than just the donut. So when you see the uni joint conversion generally being considered an upgrade, as well as being available as an off the shelf kit, it just made sense. It's a decent chunk of metal there, should last a while!

Sounds like our Disco's are two of a kind, ha! Or just perfect examples of Murphy's law...

Can't wait to see what breaks next!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cinqmars2

..... But because the bolts had chewed through both the prop flange and the diff flange I'd be looking at replacing more than just the donut. So when you see the uni joint conversion generally being considered an upgrade, as well as being available as an off the shelf kit, it just made sense. ....

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Ah, yes. Havign read much about the infamous donut setup, seems that many folks simply change the rubber coupling only, and not the locating pin AND the locating pins bush receiver(in the shaft).
But the hot tips are that, when renewing all those parts should be changed(what I eventually did once the parts came in).
So can become more exxy compared to a simple uni joint.
But when I did mine, and reason I found mine to be cracked is that the uni end of the tailshaft was a wee bit loose(causing a harmonic vibration noise when cruising on known smooth roads).
I'm sure my uni may have been original(400K klms) or at the most it's second. I had the rear donut done (with other work) 100K klms ago ..

So I did both uni and donut at the same time(a few weeks ago).
Even with tools to do it, I hate doing unis .. just messy and annoying, not really 'hard' as such.
But rattle off old bolts, wiggle a bit this way and that, (lightly) rattle on new bolts, hit it with a torque wrench .. about 5 mins later(plus about 2 hours of smoko! [biggrin]) and the coupling is done.

IIRC the uni cost me about $40-ish(GKN) and they require service(grease).
coupling 'kit' cost over $100( I think $135, because the bearing/bush had to be bought separately. The donut kit I bought came with the locating pin.
So even tho the coupling is near on 4x the cost of a uni, when viewed as a service item say over 100K klms .. is really not a lot(at $1.50/1000 klms).

Viewed from a viewpoint of a mechanic: a coupling would be my preferred job to have to do. I'd charge a customer less to do a coupling compared to a uni.
Time taken to do a uni would have to be about an hour, so lets call it $100 labour has to be factored into a uni replacement.
LR's annoying design doesn't help on the uni end (or drum brake side) of the shaft too tho. Nuts hard to get too .. etc.

On the fan blower, check the fan unit itself, resistor(do you have RAVE?) I've never seen them, but having looked into it, remove glovebox and apparently it reveals itself. How to test it ... your guess will be better than mine.
Switch operation would be last point of call, if the first two don't show up any issue.

Great read. What a top job you’ve done. I’m just into D1 ownership for the second time - my last D1 I owned was over 10 years ago, so familiar with the issues.

I’ve just tackled the power steering hoses job - not too bad if you don’t accidentally cut the wrong pipe with your dremmel [emoji1787]

I’m going to get a seal kit for my steering box just in case it starts leaking after my pipe change. Seem to be just leaking at the high pressure pipe but you never know!

Good info in your thread on the pennetrol vs rust converter into too - will have to get myself a can of pennetrol for sure.

Anyway, just wanted to say that I was impressed with where you’ve got too. Job well done [emoji106]

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Originally Posted by gusthedog

.... Seem to be just leaking at the high pressure pipe but you never know!

.....

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Actually! .. don't bee too surprised if the low pressure reservoir to pump hose(with the clamp fitting on the pump) leaks.
Very common, as I found myself ... and later saw on Britannica Restorations.
If it is leaking, don't bother trying to tighten up the clamp to get a more snug fit! If your hose is relatively new it may work. That hose is quite cheap. Probably the messiest tho .. and a good opportunity to flush out the PS fluid and replace too.