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Yeah I am babying it. Doing what I can to keep it below 3k rpm. Turning fuel to noise at that range. I have had two fill ups where I have hit high 12s. So I think it is dialed in for the highway pretty well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Corgie Carrier
Plenty of photos taken. I've driven from Brisbane to Darwin before so now I've seen it both ways. 12h a day driving is pretty dull with no radio or music to listen to. Good think I talk to myself enough to keep entertained.
Made it the remainder of the way today. So, on the search for some new mud tyres, in 245/70 or 75 for as much extra ground clearance as I can get. 4000km in 4 days and didn't miss a beat. That's as many km travelled in the last four days as the previous two years on this car!
As I'm new to 4wds, if I fit a body lift kit, does that also mean I need to update the suspension? May seem like an odd post, but just checking.
Congrats on the successful drive home, must be a good feeling to know you bought a good car.
If you are looking at 245/75 tyres, forget the body lift. A lot of hassle for no real benefit. 245/70 are almost standard size, I would go 245/75, they fit nice and not too much strain on the drive train.
I have 31x10.5x15 tyres, which is the same diameter as the 245/75, with a 40mm spring lift and I had to camel cut the rear of the rear guards and they work fine.
If you want to go 35" tyres then you will need a body lift and 2" suspension lift and cut guards.
Cheers, the other threads i have read were a little bit confusing as to if the lift was needed, or there were a lot of people who had already lifted their cars fitting larger wheels. But I don't mind cutting the guards.
First time out for a bit of a bash this afternoon... And smashed the left upper window, dented the roof too from a low speed tight turn pushing a branch into the roof. I could hear it dragging, but it sounded light enough and figured it would break. Not the case. So, off to a plastics shop, bought a piece of 2mm plastic and am in the process of cutting it to size and then gluing it in. Will finish it off in the morning.
I've learnt my lesson, don't take the lazy easy option, stop and check it out!
Also! Finally got a hold of a timing light, and I was off the dial! About 30* advance set. around 15* at the initial pre movement marking. So, explains the rough idle, and we also confirmed the vac advance isn't working. Fitted a different one and helped. So, I'll look into that more tomorrow. Reset the advance to 12BTDC as it apparently needs it as less than 8 was running pretty rough with a bit of a knock. My suspicion is that the car has overheated in the past.
New vacuum advance has arrived. Old one was definitely kaput. I did he old suck test and the new one actually held, so glad I didn't have a different fault some where else. It also has lowered my 0-60km/h time by a full second. So there was a bit more proof on that too.
A cheap set of tyres are on order - HiFly MT601 in 245/75R16. 215 each F+B which in Darwin is gold! Apparently made by Maxxis, so should be alright. I think I'll head out this weekend and see how the Pirelli scorpions that are currently on it fair. Hopefully no more broken windows though!
On my 95 D1 I found that 245/70/16 fitted fine, but 245/75/16 rubbed on full lock and the rear occasionally scraped the body on full articulation. You might need to adjust the steering lock.
I've tried a fair few different search phrases but can't find any info on how to adjust the steering stops. A lot of threads talk about it, but dont talk about how to do it.
On the rear side of the hub near where the swivel housing bolts to the axle tube you will a bolt with some thread showing and a locknut.Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanP
You want to loosen the locknut and wind the bolt out til you have the required clearance then do up the locknut.
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Add to that. You are adjusting the drivers side bump stop to get clearance between the passenger side wheel and the radius arm, and vice versaQuote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
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Excellent! Cheers for the instructions