Thread: New member with a new Disco

This noise is worse under load. Almost only under load. At idle it is very faint. I never actually physically checked for a leak (feeling for air, or spraying soapy water around), but since I've now googled and youtubed for a while, I don't believe it to be a liner. No where near loud enough. So, if the $30 gaskets don't fix it, I'll check the clearances of the push rods and work down from there.

I've discovered what one of the clunks from the front end is. The two long arms with c bends, I'd call them diff control arms, the drivers side one has had the bushing come about 5mm out of its housing, so when the arm moves, it hits the diff housing and clunks. No biggie. The tick is still to be confirmed. Damn gaskets haven't arrived yet. But, the more I drive it, the less worried I am, and the more confident I am that the diagnosis of manifold gasket is correct.

Besides that, trying to convince myself to spend the 600 odd dollars on a lift, then a couple of hundred on a Y back exhaust.

Bummer! So new gaskets went in, started the car and the tick, while quieter is still there.

So rocker cover on the right hand side came off. The rear exhaust valve, number 8, I am unable to spin the push rod. Is there any way of adjusting them? What is the set amount of valve clearance the rockers should have over the inlet and exhaust valves?

Thanks in advance.

Edit: I'll leave my original post but I've discovered a second leak. I gave the number eight a tap with a mallet, and it freed up the rod, so that's all good. I stuck it all back together as a quick search told me that we have non adjustable push rods and hydraulic lifters, so nothing I could do anyway.

After starting the car again, I could see and feel a second leak now amplified by the proper sealing manifold now. At the manifold to down pipe it is leaking. So, I see it has studs, so how the heck do I get those suckers out?

And thanks again!

Another post ticked up... Manifold to down pipe gasket replaced in 35 mins, on the side of the road in a car park. Easy as pie. Sprayed WD-40 on the studs and nuts, went for a run, sprayed them again, had a drink and a stretch, then again just before pulling them off and they all came out without a hitch, very surprised. New gaskets went in, bolted back up and it's now as good as gold!
Manifold and down pipe gaskets were splitting but no major gaps.

After some help reading my spark plugs. I pulled them today when I realised my fuel regulator wasn't plumbed into my intake plenum, so I wanted to see how they looked.

They are spotless white on the insulator. Which I've never seen before on a car or motorbike. All eight plugs were the same. And they were also gapped too small instead of .85-.90 so they got a slight adjustment. Is this an ultra lean condition? No tanning at all, or oil build up. They were put in before my trip from Melbourne up. They've done around 5k km.





Should I wind the MAF screw out a turn or two? Thoughts?

They look good to me man.
Whats your maf at now? 1.3

Originally Posted by DAMINK

They look good to me man.
Whats your maf at now? 1.3

I threw the multimeter on it, and I originally thought it said .54 so I quickly wound the screw out, but after doing so I realised I was testing the air flow sensor as the reading didn't change, so, I then grabbed the right pins and it was out to 2.3, so I can't say what it was! I've knocked it down to 1.1 though as I'm getting pretty horrid fuel economy and I'm curious to see if it makes any difference. There are multiple threads which say contradictory things, some say it does other say only at idle does it really make any difference.

I tried the same thing with mine mate.
Adjusting the maf to all sorts of settings to see if i could curb the massive running costs of the disco. No luck here either mate.

What is odd is the fuel figures some get. I cant get any where near it.
Yet my car runs good. Really good. Not fouling plugs as you would expect if it was infact running rich as.

Interesting to see another with the same issue.