Thread: Electrical

grab your multi meter and probe your vacant fuse positions you should find between 1 and 3 spots that come on with the ignition. use a male spade into one of them and your apples.

Can i power multiple accessories off one fuse position though? Or is it one empty space for each gauge?

And if i can, what do i use to split the wires? Is there a special way or connector available or you just don't do that?

theres a few solutions depending on how permanent and difficult you want to make ife later on.

if its just mutile guages, you can daisy chain the power supply or join a the gauge supply wires then run one wire down to the power source.

I use spade connectors and if Im going to splice into a wire that I want to be abe to seperate and remove later I make up a small jumper lead style extension and then cut the cable and terminate it to suite the jumper lead so if the lead is removed you can just rejoin the connections.

if you use scotch locks or scott locks or anything similar to them you're going to have issues.

how many things you can link out of one power suy depend on their power consumption an the overall power available from where you're tapping the power from.

i looked at the fuse diagram for my d1. apparently on block D there are five spare slots. my car alreay has some accessories. how can i tell which ones are being used? will they all have connections into them? or will they have a wire at the back of the fuses that i can follow?

also, if i see the amperage of all the units i am installing and add it together to get total, how can i tell what the connection i put them in can handle? do i put MM on the spare fuse slot and see what amperage is coming out of it when live? that will only give me wht the ignition is bringing though it, the actual gauges will then draw more.

is it a thing of, theres a 10amp fuse there from factory so its only recommended to draw no more than 10amps from that connection?

considering ive done electrical/computer engineering in the past i should know these things. shouldve spent less time worrying about girls and more time learning.

Yep add all the amps together amd if its less than the fuse for.the blank spot you want to use your good.

Yes all the fuse sockets.should have the feed connection in them

Just poke a spade connection into.the front of the fuse socket and wire up an inline fuse

or something like this...
5 X ADD A Circuit Fuse TAP Mini Blade Fuse Holder ATM APM 12V 1 X Free Fuse | eBay

yep, or that too, I just dont recommend using it to pull power out of a circuit thats already fused for use.

using it to tap a circuit that doesnt have a fuse in place of just sticking a blade in is a good idea.

Yea i have a fuse tap in. Started wiring today. Put the fuse tap into the cigarette lighter fuse as it is ignition activated. I could not find any unused spots. They all had some use. The spare fuses in there are not wired to anything. I tried the sunroof slot as it seemed like a good idea seeing as i have no suroof but it is battery direct connection obviously on a timer of some sort.

I dont ever use the cigarette lighter and theres a 20amp fuse there so should have enough grunt.

To make wiring neater and easier to split i ended up getting this:

S6024 150A Automotive Distribution Fuse Block - Altronics

Only problem is finding where to mount it. Looks like will go under my mud pod on the dash. There's not much room under the steering wheel. Will just mean having some of the pod unusabke but the ems2 will take care of most readings.

This way i can fuse all the seperate gauges accordingly and not have too many wires around.

If anyone knows a better fuse than the cig lighter one let me know. I tried all of them and this one was the only ignition on one i could find that was not hooked up to something important.

Ps. My car has an airbag fuse with a yellow plastic protector over it and abs braking fuse although neither of those are fitted to my car. Could these be better alternative? Was scared to touch them kinda. In case im wrong.