New Cylinder Head

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Originally Posted by theNEWT

Mine takes ~10min of driving for the thermostat to open and the gauge shows 78C when that happens as that's where it stays unless hills, AC, or higher top speed etc. I'm paranoid when it gets to 85C.

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thats how mine used to be. now the factory temp gauge starts to move just on idling for a minute or two. i do also have new temp sender unit for the factory gauge though as the old one was crusted in old housing.

I can get mine up to operating temp in under 2 minutes if so inclined.
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dont forget you've also offloaded the heater core so you've lost something in the order of 8Kw worth of heat exchanger and cooling. If you've done a full flush all the gunk that was insulating the cylinder linings and the combustion chamber domes isnt doing that anymore so the heat gets into coolant quicker.

for the newt....

if you're going to worry about 85 degrees, if you ever come for a decent drive with me, please bring a set of sunnies with the right eye peice taped over or otherwise obscured.

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Originally Posted by Fausto79

other thing i need to do is tap a bigger thread or install a helicoil to the top bolt on the water pump (the one that also holds bracket with hose clip and protects it from belt). the new (secondhand) housing i bought gave way very easily when i did up that bolt. there is a bit of thread left on the end which just gives a bit of tension but not enough for my liking or to instally the bracket properly.

wondering whether i can just drill slightly bigger hole and tap it upto m12 or m10 depending on what the size is now, without taking pump off.

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been there done that., blunt the tip of the drill first so you dont over drill it.

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I can get mine up to operating temp in under 2 minutes if so inclined.
.
dont forget you've also offloaded the heater core so you've lost something in the order of 8Kw worth of heat exchanger and cooling. If you've done a full flush all the gunk that was insulating the cylinder linings and the combustion chamber domes isnt doing that anymore so the heat gets into coolant quicker.

for the newt....

if you're going to worry about 85 degrees, if you ever come for a decent drive with me, please bring a set of sunnies with the right eye peice taped over or otherwise obscured.

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PS, are you heading here in december? if so, do you want to go for drive and look at each other's cars? not sure how well you know places around here but i know a few good areas to drive/fish offroad.

I am, but as I'm flying down I suspect that the vehicle I'll most likely to be using might be a little unevenly matched against a discoo on the 4x4 front. but I'll have a go and see how far I can get, even if it is only as far as the carpark to the entrance of the track.


my young blokes a little into fishing however so I might look into taking you up on that. more than happy to do a little assitery and tweakery in return for the favor

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Originally Posted by Fausto79

where was measurement taken though? at head or thermo housing bung or elsewhere?

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Thermostat, using the adapter that was in the madman kit.

Sent from my SM-G800F using AULRO mobile app

just for some people who asked, my heater bypass pics. and the threaded hole on top of water pump housing which i need to fix. n some of the hoses i put in. on one pic the hose from water pump (i think) to metal heater pipe is shown over the other hose. had it like this only because i threaded the water pump hole and could not fit the bracket which holds it out of the way of serpentine belt

Whats the idea of the heater bypass?

stops the heater core leaks from killing the engine.

doing it that way means when the heater core is replaced you dont have to worry about finding new hoses or arranging a different loop setup like I have.

So ,,,,,does this mean no heater? I dont quite get it.