Thread: MLS Torque/Angle Settings

maybe...

it depends on how you have the thermostat installed And if it has the bleed hole and the size of it.

theres a couple of solutions for getting the sender into the thermostat housing on the hot side that are much better, alternatively you dont need the madman for high temp.

there are 2 dirty great thermo switches in the U pipe off the thermostat, one is NO one is NC use those as they swap over at about 105 to turn off the AC compressor and force the thermo fans on the intercooler to turn on to force more air. grab one of those for an audiable alarm OR replace it with an adaptor to take the temp sender.

The one closest to the front of my car (ac plugs on u pipe) has always been disconnected and taped up to the side? Any ideas why? Would it have been tricking into my ac into thinking that the car is always hot/cold?

Thanks Dave.....good to know about those switches, I didn't know what they were for. The thermostat I have at present does not have the bleed hole. I thought the temp sender would have been better off before the thermostat.

the best place for the temp sender is in the access bolt in the center of the head on the exhaust side

the best place for the low coolant alarm is in the bung for the thermostat housing

drill a 2mm(ish) hole into the flange of the thermostat and install it with that rotated up to the highest position.

Thanks Dave, that's good advice, I'll be making some changes re your suggestions.

I fitted the new head with elring composite, my only real concern is the block deck is not dead flat, about 2-3thou out right between 2 and 3. Not a thing I could do, the vehicle had to be moved. Anyway, I got the block deck smooth and clean.....hopefully the bloody thing remains sealed. I feel like getting a cheap wreck and completely rebuilding the engine in it ground up as a replacement.

Fitted MadMan. I dont like the plastic top hose insert they sent me, its too short either side of centre so its a bugga trying to get the hoses to not slip off while clamping, they need to be about 1cm longer each side IMO. In theory it works, however my thermostat does not have a bleed hole, so there is no way of getting water into the top hose. The water level alarm works, basically saying no water until the thermostat opens then all is good (I'll have to remove thermostat and drill a hole). Running temp is around 78-82C, EGT moves all over the place, about 350-400C casual 80Km/hr driving no load, highest its been on heavy acceleration about 450C. Oil pressure seems low, 1.5 Bar at idle and 3 Bar at 2500 rpm...but from what I've read that isn't so bad.

Originally Posted by theNEWT

Thanks Dave, that's good advice, I'll be making some changes re your suggestions.

I fitted the new head with elring composite, my only real concern is the block deck is not dead flat, about 2-3thou out right between 2 and 3. Not a thing I could do, the vehicle had to be moved. Anyway, I got the block deck smooth and clean.....hopefully the bloody thing remains sealed. I feel like getting a cheap wreck and completely rebuilding the engine in it ground up as a replacement.

Fitted MadMan. I dont like the plastic top hose insert they sent me, its too short either side of centre so its a bugga trying to get the hoses to not slip off while clamping, they need to be about 1cm longer each side IMO. In theory it works, however my thermostat does not have a bleed hole, so there is no way of getting water into the top hose. The water level alarm works, basically saying no water until the thermostat opens then all is good (I'll have to remove thermostat and drill a hole). Running temp is around 78-82C, EGT moves all over the place, about 300C casual 80Km/hr driving no load, highest its been on heavy acceleration about 450C. Oil pressure seems low, 1.5 Bar at idle and 3 Bar at 2500 rpm...but from what I've read that isn't so bad.

with the 2-3 thou depression in the block you are at the limit that I would have installed that gasket at. I would have reccomended the material composite one.

what you to to get the hoses to fit as advertised is drill a hole in the hose where the sender probe will come out just a bit wider than the boss of the fitting and then cut the hose. get it right and when you put it all together you should only have about 1mm of gap between the hoses.

I agree...I also thought the block was on the edge and really I'm not happy with it, but it had to be. No way the MLS would have sealed. Hopefully the composite holds.

Hose insert fitted and works....but required a second hand to really force the hose while clamped otherwise it easily slips off.....just seems a little short to me. There were no instructions for a plastic hose fitting, only metal, although in reality they both work out the same. I found the instructions to be a little vague, they could be a lot better, but I worked it out. I'll replace the sender with a stainless bolt, replace the washer with a connector and move the sender to the head top as you suggested,...good idea.

thats a different adaptor to the one I was talking about...

if you cantget the right adaptor for the low level sender, or want to use a metal bunged one.

get some marine grade waterproof single core wire find a brass compression fitting with a nylon olive that just fits over the insulation.
Obtain, drill and thread a brass top bung to fit the brass compression fitting.
install the fitting
install the wire and trim it so that the wire pokes about 10mm past the end of the bung, strip the wire down to level with the bottom of the bung.
tighten up the compresison fitting
cut the wire about 2 inches long and fit your choice of crimp fitting.
Optional, fill the body of the bung with coolant and temp stable sealastic. so that just 1-2mm of the insulation of the wire is exposed. let that setup
install the bung.