Thread: 300tdi welch plugs

One at back of engine, against firewall. To very skilled people it can be changed in situ apparently but more than likely would be an engine out job.

One at front of engine too, under the cast housing which alternator and water pump sit on. This one is a coolant drain, water pump off, alternator off and power steering pump off job. Gives you opportunity to change p gasket and water pump gasket and put new bolts in through water pump as the three long ones are most likely corroded inside the cast housing.

To do yourself, would be cost of 6 (i think) plugs. Possibly engine crane hire, if you don't have one, lots of swearing and tears. The one next to p gasket is not a huge job. The one at back of engine, unless you have rubber fingers is an engine out.

To get a mechanic to do i think may be fairly dear as they would surely take engine out and woukd be few hours of labour (but cheap parts).

Originally Posted by Fausto79

One at back of engine, against firewall. To very skilled people it can be changed in situ apparently but more than likely would be an engine out job.

One at front of engine too, under the cast housing which alternator and water pump sit on. This one is a coolant drain, water pump off, alternator off and power steering pump off job. Gives you opportunity to change p gasket and water pump gasket and put new bolts in through water pump as the three long ones are most likely corroded inside the cast housing.

To do yourself, would be cost of 6 (i think) plugs. Possibly engine crane hire, if you don't have one, lots of swearing and tears. The one next to p gasket is not a huge job. The one at back of engine, unless you have rubber fingers is an engine out.

To get a mechanic to do i think may be fairly dear as they would surely take engine out and woukd be few hours of labour (but cheap parts).

Aha! This may answer something that came up yesterday. I have a small drip coming at the front of the motor. I have previously fixed the P gasket and it still appears to be fine - I could not see anything coming from it (I used a small mirror and torch to look underneath), but therte was water pooling up where a leak from the P gasket would be. But no drips, Sounds like a welch plug. Should be an easy fix!

But I an guessing if the front one has gone it won't be long until the back one goes. Must plan for this

Thanks,
Tom.

the easy engine in way is with a good jack/trolly jack.

Remove the cross member
remove the intercooler hoses, radiator hoses, un couple the oil cooler hoses, slacken or remove the dump pipe from the turbo disconnect the clutch hose/pipe.

lift the engien up, remove the mounts and the mount frames from the engine, lower it down and you can then reach around the side and back of the engine from the passangers side and theres reasonably good access from the under side.

Generally replace those rubber parts while you have them off and then replace the gearbox and exhaust rubbers while you are at it.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

the easy engine in way is with a good jack/trolly jack.

Remove the cross member
remove the intercooler hoses, radiator hoses, un couple the oil cooler hoses, slacken or remove the dump pipe from the turbo disconnect the clutch hose/pipe.

lift the engien up, remove the mounts and the mount frames from the engine, lower it down and you can then reach around the side and back of the engine from the passangers side and theres reasonably good access from the under side.

Generally replace those rubber parts while you have them off and then replace the gearbox and exhaust rubbers while you are at it.

just out of interest... where would you jack engine up from? around the hole in the bellhousing? or from the gearboxes?

Depends on what Ive got.

usually I pack out the head of a trolly jack and go under the sump if I dont have an engine crane.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

the easy engine in way is with a good jack/trolly jack.

Remove the cross member
remove the intercooler hoses, radiator hoses, un couple the oil cooler hoses, slacken or remove the dump pipe from the turbo disconnect the clutch hose/pipe.

lift the engien up, remove the mounts and the mount frames from the engine, lower it down and you can then reach around the side and back of the engine from the passangers side and theres reasonably good access from the under side.

Generally replace those rubber parts while you have them off and then replace the gearbox and exhaust rubbers while you are at it.

Thread dig, but can I change the welch plug at the rear of the head this way? Mines leaking and I'm trying to find the easiest way to get a new one in there.

Originally Posted by ScottW

Thread dig, but can I change the welch plug at the rear of the head this way? Mines leaking and I'm trying to find the easiest way to get a new one in there.

nope. you'll need to pull the head. but its better to pull the engine and do all of them

That's a pain. I was trying to avoid pulling the head, but it's probably easier than pulling the engine.