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From memory the single easiest diagnostic of a 300TDi is the exhaust manifold, like yours they all have the turbo housing as part of the manifold. The autos are rarer than manuals and worth more IMHO as they are better at towing off the line. With a bit of tweaking they go quite well. I helped a mate of mine drop one into a 1994 RR LSE and he's very happy with the end result.
they are visually similar. but some easily spotted differences like the turbo on a 200tdi sits up high and does not have integrated manifold as bee utey mentioned. the 300tdi turbo sits lower and has the bullhorn manifold which is part of the turbo housing. other things such as alternator, vacuum pump etc are less subtle unless you know how they look in each engine. the engine on the picture shown is definitely a 300tdi. as i mentioned i could be wrong about the changeover date. you probably know better than me as you seem to know the month and year.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjt084
id rather the 300tdi anyway. parts for the 200 are becoming rare. you wont get a new head for one unless someone has been storing it since they stopped making them.
In addition to the things mentioned previously, check if the filter inside the gearbox has been changed as they can be neglected and clog up causing wear of parts.
Timing belt is essential at 80,000ks, and replace the other belt and hoses.
Cooling system is pressurized and if leaking the coolant may not be pushed to the top of the engine, causing hot running.
They rust in the front footwells, opera windows and luggage area floor.
Our heater split at 300,000ks and flooded the driver's footwell. It is possible to bypass the heater.
Air con and electrics could be pricey to fix.
They are a good thing if looked after.
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Things that I would check are;
1. Lift the rear mats/carpet in the cargo area and check the rear floor and side for rust.
2. Check the timing belt. This will not cost a $1000 if you are capable of doing it yourself - probably about $300 or so for parts (do the inner seals and o ring etc whilst you are there).
3. If replacing the timing belt I would consider fitting a new P gasket while the front of the motor is off.
4. Check the cooling system. Especially the reservoir tank. It's worth the @$70 for a new one for your peace of mind (the old ones tend to crack and kill your motor). Fit a low water alarm and digital temp guage with alarm.
That would be the first things thaty I would check/fit. Others will probably think of more.
best luck,
Tom.
I agree with Tom. PRIORITY! Fit an engine management system, a good one that monitors coolant levels in the head, and head coolant temp. Don't even bother looking at the standard temp gauge - it's useless. And replace the stupid plastic plugs for the radiator and thermostat housing cover....you can buy brass replacements (the original plastic jobs will weaken when put on and back a few times during air bleeding etc...I had one blow in half). The engine won't tolerate overheating very well....once it gets past a certain point the head will be history...I'm afraid I know all too well from personal experience. Good luck.