Serious desert trip with a D1 300Tdi...asking for trouble or AWESOME??

The best way to travel the Nullarbor is slow and meandering...so many great camps both inland and coast side that you only find if you're not in a rush. Most seem to rush it to get it over with, but it's a spectacular part of the continent that deserves as much time as anywhere else.

Nice spot to start at the eastern end is Cactus Beach. It's a formal camp but very chilled. Top surfing spot too. Great pies st the shop on the highway before you turn off!

Ditto cutting down through Cape Arid and Cape Le Grand...I think you can turn off at Balladonia if not before.

I've driven the Nullarbor 6 times in my 98 300tdi Defender. Never an issue. ...and your D1 will be a bit quieter no doubt! My poor old Landy has had a pretty rough life and rattles everywhere! ...you'll be right in your Disco, but definitely do your timing belt, new water pump, hoses and make sure your radiatior is all good. Take plenty of water ...and wine :-)

Enjoy!

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Originally Posted by Young Angus

I wonder how long it would take and how reliable my job would be, I certainly would love to know how to do it, and how to save $1200 from Ritter doing it too.

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Taking your time (advisable on your first attempt, done in a day, or allow 2 days so there's no pressure. No doubt someone will chime in with tales of doing it in 3 hours, during a tropical cyclone, 4 foot deep in a black soil mire, with nothing but a screwdriver and a rock, but my advice is to allow a day the first time.
Take the opportunity to remove and clean out the radiator and intercooler whilst you're at it. Change the water pump and P gasket, too.
Make sure you read the instructions a few times before you start, and have everything you need on hand.
IMHO the best thing to do is to order the kit off Mario (Roverlord on this forum), it includes some bits the others don't, and their prices are better than reasonable. Also a good idea to have their contact details on hand, they have a reputation for getting parts across the country lickety-split [emoji4]

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Originally Posted by Young Angus

I wonder how long it would take and how reliable my job would be, I certainly would love to know how to do it, and how to save $1200 from Ritter doing it too.

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Took me 3 hrs never having done it before. Done one on an old Mazda 323 about 20yrs ago .. so memory was a bit dim.

I just followed all the advice(well most of it anyhow!).

You'll need tools.(if you don't already have them)
Large breaker bar(got a ratchety type 24" for $50 from a cheapo tool shop. Ratchety type is better for the crank bolt (I reckon) I think the socket is 1-1/16 .. wheel nut size for it.
The other thing you'll need is a dial type torque wrench for the tensioner bolt. I think 15ft/lb is all it needs, but dial is easier to hold with one hand(at the required torque) whilst tightening up the actual bolt.
You need a nice strong torque wrench too to tighten up the crank bolt too. Can't remember the actual numbers but 80ft/lbs + 90° more turn once that's set.

I got the crank and injector pin set off ebay for $10(maybe $20 delivered). If you don't want to stuff something up, the pin set is probably the most important kit to have.

Timing kit parts cost about $100 off ebay, but I also got seals and stuff too .. maybe $150 max! .. use Roverlord they have all the parts required that need or should be done.

The advise is to replace the main seal(inner) while you're in there. As mine wasn't leaking I didn't follow that advise! [bigwhistle]
101% my bad, coz a few weeks later it started to leak(I thought a sump leak as it only dribbled, but it was definitely the inner main seal. Had to red the entire process all over again due to my inability to follow advice!
(never again .. and the advice is to do it, no matter what you think it needed ;)

So an easy way to remove the front main seal is needed. It's deeply recessed so a proper tool to pull it out makes it a lot easier then making do with whatever you have. The tool I got is a T shaped seal remover tool with two hooks. Cheap($5).
Because the front cover seal(dust seal) is so easy to change with the timing case out now .. it's silly not to just change that too.

I did mine with the rad and intercooler in place too tho.

If you do mechanical stuff yourself and have 50% confidence you'll do it easy.. like a lego project .. just follow the steps .. no intricate knowledge of the inner workings of timings and injection is needed .. but you HAVE to lock the rear part of the crank and the injector timing locking pin. The timing pin kit is so cheap that it's not something to worry about.

Most of that 3 hrs was taken up in taking my time, and plenty of smokos and referring back to the tutes(and pictures!). I reckon next time around it shouldn't take more than an hour and a half if just working through it all quickly.
Which is basically what I did when I had to redo the entire process to change the leaking inner seal!
Be sure to change the woodruff keys (x2) as well. They cost basically nothing.

Although I just got the D3 (with the added permagrin option), I still love my D1 and am not in a rush to sell it. It has taken me all over Oz and has been set up for remote touring. More likely than not it will be a double blue D1 trip!

Good idea about doing the stuff yourself. You will learn a bit more about your car and save some money to boot.

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Originally Posted by cripesamighty

Although I just got the D3 (with the added permagrin option), I still love my D1 and am not in a rush to sell it. It has taken me all over Oz and has been set up for remote touring. More likely than not it will be a double blue D1 trip!

Good idea about doing the stuff yourself. You will learn a bit more about your car and save some money to boot.

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Hey cripes, know how you feel, I'm in no rush to sell my Defender 300tdi either, despite now having a Puma Defender. Still love driving it despite the noise, totally different feel to the Puma...it's lighter and more fun in some ways, although it's definitely double permagrin around here! In fact I doubt I could ever sell it and I'd take it anywhere in the world in a heartbeat. Do a lot of the basics myself...finding the time to do / learn everything is the issue! What I really need is a one week intensive with a genius Landy Indi to bring me up to speed with a few things!

And the Puma....it's quiet! It purrs. It's heavier and a little thirstier...but love it. Will never sell that either. ..It has aircon! and the factory stereo is damn good, subwoofer and all... I can actually hear the music on a road trip LOL!

Angus, you'll be right...wish I was coming too in my 300tdi! Prep as much as you can... but if you break down it's all part of the adventure and no doubt another Landy nut will pass on by and give you a hand. [thumbsupbig]

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Originally Posted by donh54

Taking your time (advisable on your first attempt, done in a day, or allow 2 days so there's no pressure. No doubt someone will chime in with tales of doing it in 3 hours, during a tropical cyclone, 4 foot deep in a black soil mire, with nothing but a screwdriver and a rock, but my advice is to allow a day the first time.
Take the opportunity to remove and clean out the radiator and intercooler whilst you're at it. Change the water pump and P gasket, too.
Make sure you read the instructions a few times before you start, and have everything you need on hand.
IMHO the best thing to do is to order the kit off Mario (Roverlord on this forum), it includes some bits the others don't, and their prices are better than reasonable. Also a good idea to have their contact details on hand, they have a reputation for getting parts across the country lickety-split [emoji4]

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a rock?!? luxury that is. all i had was a rusty screwdriver and a toothpick.

cape arid is definitely worth a look. but can be very remote, so do not attempt to go in unless you are completely self sufficient and have tools, know how, some kind of long range comms or PLB. there is a beach there called twilight cove. looks awesome but it's very remote to get to. the start of where the bight goes inland and has big cliffs and a freshwater section with hills coming down to beach. if you look up 4wheeling in WA there is a trip on the youtube channel where they go through the places you will likely cross, possibly even twilight cove. get some paper maps if you go offtrack. don't rely on technology. i'm getting a bit alby mangles now but helps to know which flaura is edible there and where to find water. only if you decide to venture to those remote beaches off the highway. some can be as far as 40km from the road in very remote terrain.

i would stick to the better known spots if on your own or first time. in fact. disregard what i told you above. i don't want to be responsible for anything. i just get excited at road trips in landrovers i start to carry on a bit.

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Originally Posted by Fausto79

cape arid is definitely worth a look. but can be very remote, so do not attempt to go in unless you are completely self sufficient and have tools, know how, some kind of long range comms or PLB.

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All good points Fausto. Always travel remote areas with at least an Epirb, 60 litres of extra water on board, spares and tools. Preferably a sat phone as well. Also, take it easy and play it extra safe, both when driving and walking, cooking etc.

Cape Arid is only about 120km from Esperance...so access from there is much easier than from the north. Lots of good camps and I doubt you'd be there on your own in summer. Check it out online Angus...rave reviews, less crowded than Cape Le Grand. It's magnificent.

if you look up 4wheelinginwa they just posted a new video from cape arid and twilight cove. the last trip they didnt make it there due to mechanical issues. this time round they did though and have awesome shots at twilight cove and though cape le grand etc.

For a great little PLB, check out this eBay seller.
Kannad Safelink SOLO 406 Mhz GPS enabled PLB (EPIRB) 12/2017 | eBay

We bought one off him a while back. They are the right frequency for Aust SAR, and at the price are a bargain. Note that the battery use by date is December 2017. I got a new battery put in mine, $206 inc gst and postage, took about 2 weeks. That includes a system check. So now we have a $500 odd PLB for an outlay of less than $325
I wouldn't head into any remote area without it.