Thread: Tips on removing rear aframe ball joint

I usually remove the whole A arm as trying to move the ball joint in position is near impossible, then just press out the old one and press the new one back in. A tip, before you remove the A arm make sure that the whole car is stable and can't move forwards or backwards even a bit, this also goes for the rear axle - once the axle moves forwards or backwards its way more difficult to line up the bolt holes for install later.

The hardest part is sometimes removing the ball joint taper from the diff housing, I loosened the nut until the last few threads and then used a piece of wood that sat on a jack and the other end onto the ball.joint bolt, jacked the vehicle slowly and the weight of the vehicle popped the taper out from the housing. Then just unbolted the Ball joint carrier and removed it. Hope this helps.
When replacing the ball joint I personally wouldn't recommend those so called "adjustable ones", not worth the money, been there done that, spent more time under vehicle adjusting it than it was worth.
Cheers, Mario

Undo the back joint nut and drive either forward or reverse can't remember which and break hard should force it off. Then u do from the carrier and voila ! Easy Peasy.

Mine came out easy emoving the old ball joint and replacing it was near on impossible i have a small cheap press with a bottlejack style and it wouldn't push it out. suggest you take it out and take somewhere to get it pressed out and in

Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

The hardest part is sometimes removing the ball joint taper from the diff housing, I loosened the nut until the last few threads and then used a piece of wood that sat on a jack and the other end onto the ball.joint bolt, jacked the vehicle slowly and the weight of the vehicle popped the taper out from the housing. Then just unbolted the Ball joint carrier and removed it. Hope this helps.
When replacing the ball joint I personally wouldn't recommend those so called "adjustable ones", not worth the money, been there done that, spent more time under vehicle adjusting it than it was worth.
Cheers, Mario

Agree in part. I've had trouble adjusting the ones with the 'slot' type adjustment. Just fitted a Gwyn Lewis job on the weekend, which has a 19mm hex adjustment on the top, which should make it much easier. I believe at least having a grease nipple seems to make sense.

Oh, make sure the diff can't turn when you disconnect it from the a frame. I used a jack at the back.