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Thread: My disco's started whining

  1. #1
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    My disco's started whining

    I was doing a fairly big drive a few weeks ago when i started to hear a whine from what i think is the transmission, here's the audio https://youtu.be/CNECSgxZwz8
    If anyone knows what's going on or how to fix it please feel free to share, im having to listen to some pretty awful modern music on the radio at the moment to drown out the train noise its creating. Thanks

  2. #2
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    Transmission or transfer case? Gather you have checked the oil levels. Is a gear whine. Leaning to transfer case gear noise. The transfer case is the more common culprit. Have you tried driving up hill to see if it changes under load. Then on the flat get up to speed and then take the foot of the accelerator and back on again fairly quickly. This will indicate how much back lash you have in the gears. On the long trip you would have been cruising along at a constant speed so the gears would have been able to float a bit with out load on them.
    Cheers Hall

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hall View Post
    .... Leaning to transfer case gear noise. The transfer case is the more common culprit. ....
    Sounds very similar to my issue about a year ago.
    Same thing happened to me.
    On a night drive after work, just for the hell of it.
    About 100klms from home, transfer popped out of high range(ie. no drive) and coasted to a stop.
    after head scratching I found that the lever was in neutral, back into high and the screaming gear noise started then and there.
    Tried low range for a short distance, and similar whiny noise, but that's normal in low range anyhow!

    Drove home carefully, no T/C leaks, so no loss of oil, checked again a few klms later .. and again, and again .. stayed off the freeway to sit safely at about 60-ish km/h and so on.

    Next day I went to top up T/C with a bit more oil, just in case, but it was already brimming.

    organised a change over T/C drive for ages to get said changeover done and noise gone

    Can't remember which bearing they said stuffed up, but they said it was a bearing.

    The one thing to test out too, when it starts making the whiny noise, find a flat or slightly downhill stretch of road and use the throttle to see if you can eliminate the noise.
    On mine, if I had the throttle at just the right spot .. not full trailing, just a slight amount of overrun, the bearing screaming could be completely eliminated.
    On a full trailing throttle mine would still whine, but much less volume.

    Mine started to make a ever so very slight whiny noise just prior to the high range pop out that one night, when it went pop. Very very slight, and having an RRC for many years, many years ago .. that thing was excessively loud in the transmission anyhow, so was somethign I was used too.
    Thought nothing of the very slight whiny noise building up.
    Then came that pop that night and the very slight whine became painful .. and $$$$!!!
    After my 'pop night', the noise started at about 40-ish, got loud at 60-ish and got painful at over 80km/h.

    The problem with the sound recording, is that we can't get a reference point of how loud it really is.
    But it sounds almost as loud as the 300 Tdi engine noise/drone.
    What speed was the recording done?
    Can't say for sure, but given the level of the engine sound and the whine noise being similar, I'd say it's as loud as mine was after my T/C's popping episode.

    My 300 Tdi is also an auto.

    After the TC reco was done, driving home was surreal in that it was exceptionally quiet.(and still is now).

    Try the trailing throttle test too. it's a very small and specific position of the throttle that matches the engine load with that already on the transmission.

    And I just can't remember which bearing they said was the culprit on mine too ... sorry.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  4. #4
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    I had no pop

    thanks guys, that was going from 0 to about 75km/h or so, i had no pop when it all started, im changing over the oil in the transfer case, front and rear diffs tomorrow to see if there is any evidence of damage, from there ill look at getting the transfer case sorted if its still there also around how much am i looking at for parts and labour. Thanks

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by wllgbsn View Post
    .... how much am i looking at for parts and labour. Thanks
    I didn't bother looking into a rebuild(which I assume would be cheaper) .. I just went for a changeover case, with them to fit it too.

    4WD Industries in Maitland. (ps. very happy with their service level too).

    mine cost $1850 for the case, about $400 for labour, but all up I paid $500 in labour as they serviced the auto, changed serpentine belt and tensioner, and replaced rear tailshaft donut/coupling.

    They offer a 40K klm warranty or 2 years if they do it, or if their partner mechanics do it for you.
    If your mechanic does the install, they reduce it to 1yr 20K klms.

    So far, I've done just over 30K klms for the year, and feel confident that it's going to last pretty well .. no issues so far ... and more importantly no leaks!

    Obviously without inspecting the internals for wear, it's hard to pin down an exact figure, but Ashcrofts sell a Master Rebuild kit for the LT230 at 95 pounds.(approx $160 at current exchange rates) .. plus a few more for shipping.
    Seems to include all bearings(which would have to be done once you're delving into it all) seals and stuff like that.
    The question will then be what condition is the centre diff going to be like, and any other wear on shaft splines.
    Add about 5-6hrs labour for someone to build it ....

    Start adding up all the other parts that should be rectified whilst the case is apart ... and I reckon it was just easier to go with an exchange unit. But mine is my daily driver and only way to get about, so being off the road for a few days was going to be a huge annoyance.

    If you plan to keep the D1 for a while thereafter(which is going to make sense) .. from what I've been reading, it's probably a good idea to have the case modded with 'a sleeve'(for the intermediate shaft).
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  6. #6
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    I have done a transfer case rebuild with that kit. The only item/ items it was missing was the preload shims. Obtainable in oz. The main issue you may have with a home rebuild is the spline on the input shaft from the gear box and the internal spline in the gear that fits that spline. That has a tendency to wear as it relies on oil being taken up by the gears and some how getting into the spline. A good fix for this is to cross drill next to the gear. Two places at 90 degrees to each other using a carbide tipped drill. I used , I think from memory, a 3/8 drill. If the spline does have excessive wear a second mortgage should cover the cost of a new gear. It won`t be real cheap. I did not need to replace the gear when I did mine.
    Cheers Hall

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