Thread: DISCO Tdi300 ALTERNATOR has failed....

Originally Posted by bee utey

Nope. Leave the field windings connected to the diode end and lever off the drive end cover instead. The regulator should just undo with a small number of screws.

OK, so u obviously have to remove the pulley off 1st then? Thats Different to what the manual indicates.....

Originally Posted by Robmacca

OK, so u obviously have to remove the pulley off 1st then? Thats Different to what the manual indicates.....

No, you undo the rear plastic cover then the 4 studs holding the body together. Remove the regulator at this point unless you're happy for the brushes to pop out a bit. The front plate, rotor and pulley should withdraw from the rear end with a little wriggling. From memory the rear bearing sits in the rear housing with a thin steel spring thing around it, not much force involved. It has to be pressed off the rear of the rotor shaft over the slip rings. Once you have the rotor out you can clamp it in a vice to undo the pulley, and then slide out the rotor shaft and access the front bearing. It generally takes longer to type out these words than to actually do the job.

Be aware that there are a couple of different models of these alternators, and the assembly may differ. The ones that I have the shaft has an Allen key recess to hold it from rotating, while you will need a either a special socket or a tube spanner for the nut as it is recessed inside the pulley. Early ones also had a cooling fan on the outside of the drive end. Be VERY careful just where you "tap" on the alloy housing or you will break off the mounting lugs!

Originally Posted by Old Farang

Be aware that there are a couple of different models of these alternators, and the assembly may differ. The ones that I have the shaft has an Allen key recess to hold it from rotating, while you will need a either a special socket or a tube spanner for the nut as it is recessed inside the pulley. Early ones also had a cooling fan on the outside of the drive end. Be VERY careful just where you "tap" on the alloy housing or you will break off the mounting lugs!

Thats what did broke mounting lug tryign to seperate housing i picked up an excellant 2nd handy for $80 looked like new works well so far

I bought one for my D2 from a auto electrician in Dandenong Vic for 290.00. Not OE but great just the same. It included the Vac pump as well. The guys name is Lanka Auto Electrical Supplies 0397932727. Hope this helps. Considering the OE cost was over 1000 I thought that a good deal.

Originally Posted by Roadrunner230

I bought one for my D2 from a auto electrician in Dandenong Vic for 290.00. Not OE but great just the same. It included the Vac pump as well. The guys name is Lanka Auto Electrical Supplies 0397932727. Hope this helps. Considering the OE cost was over 1000 I thought that a good deal.

$290 sounds very fair
Now that you have a working alternator in the truck Maybe it would be a good idea to strip the old one out at your leisure and refurbish it.
The parts needed are not that expensive and you would end up with a spare that you could either keep or sell to off set the $290

Originally Posted by Roadrunner230

I bought one for my D2 from a auto electrician in Dandenong Vic for 290.00. Not OE but great just the same. It included the Vac pump as well. The guys name is Lanka Auto Electrical Supplies 0397932727. Hope this helps. Considering the OE cost was over 1000 I thought that a good deal.

Yes.... time has come to an end in looking, will be ringing MR to buy one of their new ALT's and install it and then when I have some spare time I'll look into pulling the old one apart to try and fix it

The following was posted on another thread awhile ago:

Reconditioning a magnetti marinelli A127 Alternator - International Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum