300tdi Auto weirdness

ps. I hate when you look for something and can't find it. Haven't been able to find the old waxstat stat for a while, and today I went looking for another 3/8 drive ratchet I know I have somewhere. It was inevitable that I couldn't find it, but the consolation was I found the waxstat! :d

Tested again in the bucket(icecream bucket) with freshly boiled water) and same observation as before.
IR thermometer recorded 96°C directly on the stat, and only about a 2, maybe 3mm opening. I preheated it a couple of times too to get it already hot and added freshly boiled water..
Thought to myself I'm gunna get this thing to open up properly,, even if it scalds me trying!
So I popped it in the pot over the stove and finally, it started coming good.. So it does eventually open up fully in vigorously boiling water, but it's an ordeal to get it so.

So my earlier comments re the waxstat not opening fully have to be retracted due to a lack of trying before.
But the Tridon still do react much quicker to both contact with hot water, and contact with cold water once fully open.
The waxstat also take twice the time to close from fully open(in the pot) to dunking in the cold water in a bucket too.

Another thing to note about the Tridon, is that there is a stamping on it marked Motorad, which is a auto parts thermostat manufacturer from the US.
So I'm assuming that Tridon buy them in for this particular model of thermostat.

I have just replaced my old 88 Waxstat for a new 88 Tridon.
I tested them both before putting the new one in.
The old Waxstat started opening at about 70-75 and was fully open by about 90.
It was fully closed at 70 on the cooldown.
The Tridon started opening at about 85 and was fully open by about 90.
It was fully closed at 80 on the cooldown.
I couldnt see that there would be much of a difference in the flow rate when both fully open.
The early opening on the Waxstat partly explains the very long warmup time especially in winter.
I doubt that the Tridon will have the motor running any cooler - based on what I observed.
Will see over the next few days.

Ok so fuel filter changed, sedimentor had some gritty **** in the bottom but doubt either caused the issue.

Manifold gasket wont arrive till monday, will go on with the new hoses and then test drive.

Tried to change auto filter but realised it was not as straight forward as I imagined so only a fluid refresh in the end. Have a feeling I may have to come back to that! I fear recent fluid change has dislodged crud into the filter causing low pressure slip through the gears.

Inspected wastegate and hose to IP. All looks OK there except the IP line has been rubing on the injector lines. Not right through but not far off!

Looked for other rubs and boy are there some hose rubbing issues in this engine bay. Seems like a lot of the hose retainer clips are broken. Needs a good tidy up!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dc28bdd638.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d34bb0484e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...11220be8d2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...06d181f734.jpg

Oh, and the heater hoses that run around the back of the head is touching the back of the rocker cover and wearing thin! Is that normal land rover rubbish or am I missing a retainer back there too?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by manic

....

Oh, and the heater hoses that run around the back of the head is touching the back of the rocker cover and wearing thin! Is that normal land rover rubbish or am I missing a retainer back there too?

---

Ah! .. Ok then! It may be normal(landrover rubbish), as one of mine is the same.

I popped in some noise insulation on the bulkhead a while back(just push fitted it all and wedged it between pipes and stuff).
Had a bit left over and so used a small piece to separate the heater hose from the corner of the head.
I have a full set of silicon hoses that I got over a year ago now .. still too lazy to fit them up, but got it all on the basis that I really hate those 'amalgamated' hose off hose type designs like the main large rad hose, and that this one heater hose of mine has been rubbing for quite a while and I thought would have popped by now(but hasn't).

One of the things I prioritized when I got mine mid last year. Check all rubbing spots in terms of hoses and badly placed wiring .. and remove unnecessary addons too.

Eddo: on the flange of the waxstat could be a very small circle with a number inside the circle. Mine says 88(so it's a circle with an 88 inside it) hard to read, but a magnifying glass makes it easier.
I'm curious as to whether someone used a 78°C stat in yours.
Mine is the other way round. Hardly opens at 83(maybe a mm).

Hi Authur
The waxstst is also an 88 (about 9 yrs old) so probably just malfunctioning albeit safely....or maybe just differently to the Tridon.
I am not clear on how exactly an 88 should operate ie opening temp, what temp it should be fully open, the gradient of degree of openess vs temp etc.
I assume manufacturers would have this data.

I am not going to change anything else until I get the radiator replaced or reco’d now.
It was rodded about 9 yrs ago. It is the original one so i will probably renew i think.

Gaskets delivered on a Sunday - thank you Christmas!

Fitted with new silicon hoses, all torqued up. Bonus time for rocker breather clean out and tappet clearance check, barely any adjustment needed. Not suprising considering how smooth and zippy it has been.

Test drive saw 3 selected and foot planted from stand still. Lag until boost kicked in and then shot off , continued to shoot past 80kph no problem. No motor way or hill to test on today but car sounds and behaves exactly as it was on the last run when all was going so well. No better, no worse.

It still has a pronounced turbo whistle which must be the flexi joint on the dump pipe. Its a little shredded. So I dont think manifold gasket was the issue.

Back up the Hume for Christmas so will see how it goes on that same hill. Id be confident if I had managed to change the transmission filter!