By the way, anyone have a screwdriver big enough to fit in this thing? I was expecting something to wrap a spanner around, but this is completely round!
I have a visible small leak from the house going to the water pump so I guess it is using a very minute amount of coolant, but there is a tiny hole somewhere so air might be getting sucked back in.
Funnily enough this morning when I took off the alarm didn't go off at all so I thought after having tightened the hose again it didn't let at more air back into the system...But then after I drove it and let it cool down (without incident) the next time I fired it up the alarm did it's thing again, albeit not for as long but still did it the stupid thing.
I'm going to get it pressure tested tomorrow morning and maybe have that hose leak checked out.
By the way, anyone have a screwdriver big enough to fit in this thing? I was expecting something to wrap a spanner around, but this is completely round!
I am pretty sure that your alarm is doing exactly what it is supposed to do and is warning you that your coolant level is low.
The more you drive and ignore the alarm the greater the chance of damaging your engine, Get it fixed ASAP is my advice.
A coolant leak anywhere regardless of the size of the leak is a Problem, Have you tried bleeding the cooling system yet to remove any residual air in it?
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
I am just hoping that this plug isn't indicative of the quality of the work done on your truck by the PO or the mechanics that you have been using.
Why wasn't this addressed when you had the work done on your cooling system recently?, Any fitter that is worth his/her Salt would have replaced that abortion in a heartbeat.
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
The original bleed plug would have been those horrible plastic types that split break and cause nothing but trouble.
The brass ones aren't original fitment, but back in the day, I remember the early RRC's had that round 'screw driver' slot type plug, and no hex section to use a spanner or socket on.
So I'd say an earlier owner probably had changed it early on and got a brass plug to suit, and that may have been the only option available at the time.
You can get brass plugs with the hex section fairly easily.
Mario(roverlord) has then for sale.
The other use for those brass plugs is for the diff plugs as well.
My personal preference with thos brass plugs tho is not to use a rubber o-ring type seal, but get a copper washer.
If you ever have to muck about with the cooling system, and need to disturb the plugs, the o rings need to be replaced every time(or they leak).
At the moment, with my thermostat plug(which also houses my temp sender) I don't use a sealing washer at all .. doesn't leak.
Get in touch with Mario and get a new plug for it.
Like Trout said, a cold chisel will do the job of removing it.
Once that old type is removed, be very reluctant to refit it .. so prep yourself for that job.
I'd reckon that if a previous owner did all that work to the car over the time they had it, they probably changed the diff plugs to the brass types as well, but to be sure have a peek.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
A pair locking vice grip pliers or a small stillson wrench would probably do it
Or a large screwdriver or some flat steel used sideways. That plug is perfectly round. Looks like it was made that way, not butchered.
Tom.
1996 Disco 1 300TDI manual - Lucille a cantankerous red head! :D
1997 Disco 1 300TDI Auto - sold
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