Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 61

Thread: 98 D1 V8 bad fuel economy - 43.2L per 100km - vacuum advance?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
    Posts
    3,770
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Old Farang View Post
    Could be the cold start sensor is stuffed. ETC8496. There are 2 similar sensors that are screwed into the intake manifold, so you need to check the correct one. Depending how it may have failed, it will cause high fuel consumption as the engine will be running rich all the time.
    Thanks. Any guidance on how to check that sensor?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Wannanup WA
    Posts
    1,477
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    Thanks. Any guidance on how to check that sensor?
    I posted about it previously, just can't find it at the moment.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Wannanup WA
    Posts
    1,477
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Old Farang View Post
    I posted about it previously, just can't find it at the moment.
    Here tis:

    1993 Discovery High fuel consumption

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
    Posts
    3,770
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Old Farang View Post
    Thank you, will read now.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    11,732
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    As mentioned above I’ve checked and found the fault with the vacuum advance but how does one check the mechanical advance?
    Get yourself a cheap timing light, you'll need it for the idle timing in any case. Timing should advance with revs. Also remove the distributor cap and see that the rotor freely moves against the advance springs. Don't pull on the rotor button without reading this thread first:

    Lucas V8 dissy nylon clip repair method.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
    Posts
    3,770
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    Thanks. Any guidance on how to check that sensor?
    The answer for testing the temperature sensor for cold start from 1993 Discovery High fuel consumption is:

    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Also check the 2 wire plug on the temp sender at the front of the inlet manifold, this should read around 300 ohms with a warm engine. Note that this isn't the 1 wire sender for the dash gauge, that's next to the 2 wire one.
    Quote Originally Posted by Old Farang View Post
    [table]
    [TR]
    [TD]The Coolant Temperature Sensor should change resistance with heat, per the following specs:

    - 10 c ....................9,100 - 9,300 ohms
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [/table]
    0 c.........................5,700 - 5,900 0hms
    20 c.......................2,400 - 2,600 ohms
    40 c.......................1,100 - 1,300 ohms
    60 c........................500 - 700 ohms
    80 c........................300 - 400 ohms
    100 c.......................150 - 200 ohms


    The Coolant Temperature sensor is used to enrich the fuel mixture whenthe engine is cold. These devices almost always fail open-circuit, which makesthe injection system believe that the engine is at somewhere around–40 degrees Centigrade. The system will always detect this as a faultcondition, and use a substitute value of 30 degrees Centigrade whilstsetting a fault code in the ECU. In practice, thismeans that the car will be difficult to start when cold (too lean), andwill be too rich when warmed up. However, it will usually get home!
    .................................................. .....................................
    These sensors are still available and not expensive. p/n: ETC8496. If a faulty sensor is replaced it will be necessary to clear the fault in the ECU either by unplugging it, or disconnecting the battery for a few seconds.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
    Posts
    3,770
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Also check that the fpr is not perforated this will draw extra fuel in to the inlet manifold.


    I pulled the vacuum hose off the FPR. No signs of fuel in the hose. Put a known good hose on and sucked and it holds the vacuum so I assume that he diaphragm is not perforated. The hose looked a bit old with some cracks in the rubber so I have replaced it.

    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Is it getting hot quickly? Sounds like it is still in warm up program... thermostat needs to open quickly. At least 82degree one.
    Spoke to the old man and he tells me that it’s not heating up. It sits on the very bottom of the ‘normal’ temperature range indication just above the C.



    He towed the boat (5.2m fibreglass half cab with 115HP) up the Southern Outlet. The vehicle was very underpowered and he had to drop it back gears and give it gas. He was worried about the temperature with it reving so high towing a load up such a steep incline but the temperature gauge on the dash didn’t get off the bottom of the ‘normal’ temperature range mark.

    So how do I get the car to get hot?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    11,732
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    So how do I get the car to get hot?
    New thermostat.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yup. Thermostat is stuck open . I think i have the right one at work. I can drop it outside the gate for you in the morning i have to drop in quickly. Ill txt you when ive been down there.


    Jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    924
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Wow...don't suppose you've checked for leaks in the fuel tank or lines have you? Had to ask 98 D1 V8 bad fuel economy - 43.2L per 100km - vacuum advance?
    '97 Tdi 300
    5sp manual w/ D-gas, Maxi Drive rear, 245/75/16 rubber, dual batteries, other stuff.

Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!