Worth checking/replacing coolant temp sensor for the efi. Usually very low on power and black smoke when they fail. But if it’s not getting up to operating temp, will chew some fuel. I have half radiator covered in winter to get temps up, even after replacing thermostat. Also worth checking that tdc on balancer is true, mine is out.
Hi guys,
the fuel consumption figures that have been mentioned seem rather high to me. We have owned our '95 D1 V8 since 2012 and have averaged 18.9l/100km over the time we have owned it. Best figure was 13.8l/100 and worse was 31.5l/100. Does the OP have Rovergauge, its a useful bit of software for the D1. Also our car does have oxy sensors and did have cats as well. Cats are long gone. Unfortunately I've just been told to hurry up (we are going out) but google search and you may find some intering info from Mark (cant remember his last name) he's written a fairly good guide. Plus the good info here should sort it. I also think you should check the mechanical soundness as well.
Cheers, James NZ
I got 52L/100km when the coil packs died on the D2 V8 so I'd say an ignition issue as others have said.
Edit: Since changing the packs and leads it now varies between 13L/100km on long distance trips to 19L/100km towing a 2 ton trailer.
Remove the line from the manifold to the vac advance. Suck on it and hold the vacuum with your tongue. If it the suction holds it's fine and time a timing light tune.
if not it's buggered and most the fuel in your tank will pour out the exhaust. Low power and rubbish sounding engine.
careful of cheap eBay jobs when buying the new unit. I had 2 fail instantly.
check all other vacuum leaks and ensure the manifold is connected perfectly to the MAF.
clean the MAF with cleaner as suggested.
economy should be down around the 16-18 litres per 100km.
then ****fart around with all the other bits and bobs. (O2 sensors temp sense etc.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redfoxie
How is P I S S a swear word but not fart?
What's the method for this?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick1970
Dial indicator with extension to reach piston crown is the nice way.....Quote:
Originally Posted by twr7cx
I made up a dummy spark plug with a rod welded into it, just long enough to reach piston crown before TDC. Remove all plugs (just to make it easier to turn over), dummy plug in No1, gentlyeturn over with socket and extension bar, mark balancer when you feel piston touch, rotate opposite direction and mark again. Mid point between marks is TDC.
Replaced the thermostat and gasket this afternoon. The temperature gauge now gets up to the half way mark.
As a bonus I found the disconnected vacuum hose for the vacuum operated cruise control, reconnected it and the cruise control works.
Next up when I get some time is to replace the vacuum advance unit on the side of the distributor < https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery...ml#post2777308 > and check/set the timing, idle and MAF.
I'm running a bog standard Disco Two V8 4L automatic, cruise control, standard tyres. I run it on 98 RON, and get between 600 and 700 km's to the tank, this is driving at speed limits (including 110 zones) with a half roof rack, bullbar, load etc. 20l per 100kms seems a lot of fuel, I get around 15l/100km, and better if I'm just crawling around at lower speeds (say 80 km/h). I don't stand on the load pedal too much, unless I put it in sport to overtake a road train or something.Quote:
Originally Posted by twr7cx
It sounds like I have the same spark plugs etc, but I replaced all the leads a while back (pain in the ...., but you can do it by loosening a few bolts, having a diagram, and leaning over the motor - don't need to take everything apart).
Good luck.
I
Just out of curiosity is the cruise control the same on the Disco 1 & 2 V8 auto? Mines a pain in the ... to set, have to hold it a while, at the speed, to get it to take at that speed. If I just click it on it sets itself about 7km/h lower ... any idea?Quote:
Originally Posted by twr7cx