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Thread: 98 D1 V8 bad fuel economy - 43.2L per 100km - vacuum advance?

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Farang View Post
    Exhaust note depends on the V8 firing order, and hence the gas pulses through the system.

    Rover: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 (and the old Ford flat head!)
    And small block Chev...

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    [/I]The temperature gauge has a different sender to the ECU sensor.
    The ECU sensor tells the ECU what it thinks the engine temperature is.
    If too much resistance then cold enrichment.
    Regards Philip A
    Did both Phillip , i have a touchscreen rovacom tablet with 14CUX capabilities. Real time screen gives me everything even lambda outputs however not req as you know in Aus.

    Jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    So far I have changed all fluids (engine oil and filter, automatic transmission filter and fluid, transfer box, front and rear diff oils), changed the spark plugs (NGK standards gapped according to Rave), the air filter and replaced two ignition leads which had damaged plug boots.
    DId you try changind O2 sensors. I had the same problem and I change O2 Sensors and MAF. That resolve my issue.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by ggrupea View Post
    DId you try changind O2 sensors. I had the same problem and I change O2 Sensors and MAF. That resolve my issue.
    No O2 sensors on a D1 sold new in Australia.

  5. #55
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    The economy is better than when I started the thread - for my old man it's about 25L per 100km on short trips - 4 to 8km type length. Towing the boat on the highway achieved 21L per 100km. I borrowed the vehicle for a week to commute to and front work (trips of 15km to 25km in length) and achieved 19.84L per 100km which is an effective tank range of around 360km. Not great but better than 43.2L per 100km where we started!

    This is on normal unleaded 91 from United Petroleum. Might be interesting to see if Premium or E10 makes a difference?

    What we did to improve it is in the posts previously, but in summary:
    Replaced all spark plugs
    Replaced two ignition leads
    Replaced fuel filter
    Cleaned MAF sensor with CRC MAF Cleaner
    Checked MAF sensor voltage reading
    Replaced thermostate
    Adjusted timing
    Replaced vacuum advance unit
    Replaced vacuum advance vacuum hoses
    JC had previously checked the temperature sensor readings

  6. #56
    DAMINK Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    The economy is better than when I started the thread - for my old man it's about 25L per 100km on short trips - 4 to 8km type length. Towing the boat on the highway achieved 21L per 100km. I borrowed the vehicle for a week to commute to and front work (trips of 15km to 25km in length) and achieved 19.84L per 100km which is an effective tank range of around 360km. Not great but better than 43.2L per 100km where we started!

    This is on normal unleaded 91 from United Petroleum. Might be interesting to see if Premium or E10 makes a difference?

    What we did to improve it is in the posts previously, but in summary:
    Replaced all spark plugs
    Replaced two ignition leads
    Replaced fuel filter
    Cleaned MAF sensor with CRC MAF Cleaner
    Checked MAF sensor voltage reading
    Replaced thermostate
    Adjusted timing
    Replaced vacuum advance unit
    Replaced vacuum advance vacuum hoses
    JC had previously checked the temperature sensor readings
    Under 20 and your doing well if you ask me.
    I have tried all of the above and more on my d1 v8 and still get bad numbers. Something i decided just is.

  7. #57
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    I can only suggest a couple of other checks.
    1 Check that the TPS reads less than AFAIR .49 volts at idle. It has to be under that for override injector cutoff to work over 1500RPM.
    2 Check the centrifugal advance by turning the rotor a bit and seeing that it springs back.
    3 Check the OHMS of the fuel temperature sensor on the rail.
    4 Check that the Fuel pressure regulator diaphragm is intact by sucking on it. Check that the little housing on the back of the manifold is tight, and that there are no splits in the hose to the fuel pressure regulator. It might be worthwhile to fit a new FPR.

    Although you say the temperature sensor has been checked ,was it the correct one? The temp sensor for the ECU is a two terminal one near the RH front injector. Sometimes the injector for that cylinder and the temp sensor terminals can be mixed up. They are different colours AFAIR. You would have a miss but with 8 cylinders you sometimes don't notice a miss. The single terminal sensor is only for the gauge.

    Also check that all injector plugs have continuity as the wires can break inside the loom. If one is broken you can just tee off the next one along as they batch fire.
    From my 91 RRC you should get about 20Lper100km around town and 17 or better on the highway .
    Regards Philip A

  8. #58
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    A quick update, almost nine months after this thread started. Borrowed the old mans D1 V8 again for the past few weeks and have been achieving around 17.61L per 100km commuting to and from work which is about 28km away from home each way. Brother used it to travel up the coast (around 600km round trip) and claims he got as low as 16L per 100km. So were a long way better than where it started! A little bit sad that achieving this still horrendous economy gets me excited but the noise of it does sometimes make me consider owning my own Rover V8...

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    Vacuum advance unit replaced on the distributor today.
    Got less than 19 months and only around 6,000km out of new replacement vacuum advance unit I fitted back on 25 February 2018. Fuel economy has pushed back out to 19.6L/100km as a result. It was a Powerspark unit from the UK that came recommended. It seems that I’m not the first to have this issue:

    Quote Originally Posted by Redfoxie View Post
    Ok it's been a mission but I solved it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Redfoxie View Post
    The silver bullet was the vacuum advance unit. It just took me a few shots:

    3 faulty vacuum advance units later... the one on the dizzy was busted so replaced with recommended eBay job. Seemed to run better at first but after 80 kms of driving it proved no better so went hunting again, nothing obvious so I sucked on the vacuum advance line and it had failed!!
    got it replaced free of charge from the UK supplier, new unit went on. Ran better, fuel gauge dropped slower first 30 litres took me 160kms better but not the best fix. Next 30litres got me only 130 kms again, went straight to the vacuum advance unit... failed!!!!

    I took to the spare first failure with a tin opener and discovered that in the process of making these items, the diaphragm was crimped too tight on one side and made the joint too thin... so the vacuum just tore it....
    out with the silicone, clamped it up installed it and hey presto my little 30litre tank gets me 200kms... even towing a trailer.

    So if you have fuel consumption of 20l per 100 kms, check the Vacuum advance unit. An instant fix (if you buy a good replacement) down to 15l per 100kms.

    talk about a simple thing made hard.
    1993 Discovery High fuel consumption


    I’m now seeking a suitable good quality replacement of diaphragm for rebuilding < RTC3201 VACUUM ADVANCE UNIT 2 PIN DISTRIBUTOR 3.5/3.9 EFI - a reliable brand? Replace >.


    In the interim I might advance the timing out to 12* as per JC’s earlier advice:

    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Set timing to 10deg or even 12 if vac advance iffy.
    Mine - modified MY03 LT L318 Discovery 2a HSE Td5 15P
    Hers - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 2.7L TDV6
    Dads - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 2.7L TDV6
    Sister-in-laws - MY98 LJ Discovery ES 3.9L V8

  10. #60
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    Have you tried these guys Advance Diaphragm Options - Home | Facebook

    They rebuild the genuine Lucas which is better made than the aftermaket available.

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